94 s-10 blazer, digital dash stops working as weather gets colder, do I need to replace or is there a way to fix it or insulate it somehow.

take it to azone for free code check

Pull battery teriminals off and cleaned real good

hi
I have the same truck and bought my truck with a bad dash,only the speedometer worked. I got it rebuilt from a GM dealer (700.00) and everything was great for a year or so.....Then the speedometer stopped working. It worked and then it went blank for 5 min. or so came on for a minute and so on......I was angry to find out the warranty was expired. I looked on EBAY and found a used one for 30.00. Put it in and everything has worked great so far. that was 2 years ago. Its hit and miss at the scrapyard but its the only option.They only used the" vacuum florescent " instrument panel for 2 years ,92, 93.....PS .....If you find one that works a GM dealer can adjust the KMS so it matches the truck you are putting it in .... Free i believe .I hope this helps....Pgale89

from the information you provided, It doesn't sound like anything to do with the work you had done. If the noise sounds like it's coming from behind the dash, it may be a sticky speedometer cable, gets worse in colder weather? Or a loose screw in the dash itself. Check the ashtray for loose change rattling etc, that can get you sometimes ha ha Hope this helps

Replace fuse and/or relay. Fuse in fuse panel under dash relay in relay panel under hood

these digital clusters were not made very well,the fix is a reconditioned unitor take a chance on a used one

SOUND LIKE DASH LIKE WIRE PROBLEM OR FAULTY DASH.

it may need a lifter or valve adjustment when cold they will tick or knock depending on how loose or worn out then when it warms up they swell with heast and noise stops. after adjusting or replacing it will stop making noise

May sound silly but take a short length of hose and put one end to your ear and use the other end to probe for the leak. It will be substantially louder as you get nearer to it. As far as the oily stuff in the lines, I can't think of anywhere it could be coming from unless the master cylinder is leaking into the power booster and somehow getting into vacuum lines...but this should not happen because any fluid in there would be drawn into the engine, and, the master would be low??? Try to find the leak first and deal with the other thing later...it may turn out to be a "nothing" item.

some of the vacuum lines got disconnected under the dash that controls the heater box and the water control outside