You are either not getting fuel or the crankshaft position sensor has failed. on some mercedes the fuel pump will not run if the computer does not see rpm. so the easiest and cheapest attempt to repair is replacing the crankshaft position sensor. it is located at the back of the engine near the transmission bell housing.
SOURCE: no spark in my 1999 silverado 4x4 4.8 engine
Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?
Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)
If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........
SOURCE: car won't start
check drivers manual for "fuel shut off" "reset button" my 2005 has one under drivers side dash by throttle
SOURCE: no spark
Here are a couple of ideas. However, I think you've already covered most of them.
1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turns you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain. (already done this)
2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module (already changed) or ignition coil (could this be it?)is bad.
3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. (already done this) You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.
SOURCE: buick 3800 wont start help
Change plugs check wires for correct connection. Check pcv for vacuumn leaks. Starter fluid on mass air flow meter may damage it.
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SOURCE: i have a c220 mercedes and have had problems starting the car
sounds like wiring problem engine harness
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This is true. Depending on what year it is. Most cps are in the middle of the block, drivers side. Best way to get to it is remove starter.
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