Do I really need to replace the end cap bolts on my k9k 1.5 DCI engine when I change the bearing shells or is it just best practice?

Here are the torque settings for a Ford Fiesta 1.4 2010 for the main bearings, head bolts, and big ends:
Main bearings

• Main bearing caps: 1st stage - 7 Nm, 2nd stage - 16 Nm
• Main bearing bolts: 45 Nm + 90°

Head bolts

• Cylinders 1-3: 2nd stage - 30 Nm + 90°, 3rd stage - 80 Nm + 180°
• Cylinder 4: 2nd stage - 25 Nm + 90°, 3rd stage - 60 Nm + 180°

Big ends

• Connecting rod cap nuts: 1st stage - 22 Nm, 2nd stage - 40 Nm + 90°

Please note that these are just the general torque settings. The exact torque settings may vary depending on the specific engine and vehicle. It is always best to consult your vehicle's service manual for the correct torque settings.
Here are some additional tips for tightening the torque settings:

• Use a torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the correct torque.
• Tighten the bolts in a star pattern, working your way from the center out.
• Do not overtighten the bolts, as this can damage the engine.

I can't comment about your engine but all the engines I have worked on stick to the same basic rules - each connecting rod and cap is individually finished as a pair so the caps aren't interchangeable.
Most manufacturers engrave or stamp pairing numbers on the rod and the cap to ensure the right cap is returned to the right rod and as these markings are always on the same side it also serves to indicate which way around they are supposed to be fitted.

If there are no such markings most mechanics will make their own identification marks.

Each bearing shell has a locating tab that locates in a recess in the connecting rod and the cap, the purpose of which is to prevent the bearing shells rotating within the housing. I have yet to see an engine where those recesses aren't together on the same side when assembled.

Each bearing shell protrudes a couple of thou from the housing so when the cap is fitted to the rod and the bolts tightened it squeezes the bearing shell by a small amount so it is held securely in the housing - this is called the "bearing knip" and is essential, as is ensuring any oil holes are aligned.

If you have the correct bearings but when tightened they pinch the crankshaft it is possible someone in the past had filed the connecting rod caps to reduce the bearing clearance and get rid of noise without spending any money. Some careful measuring will be needed to decide if that is the trouble and if it is, one or more new rods will be needed or the correct size of shim fabricated and fitted...

Exactly which bolts do you need the settings for? There are hundreds of nuts and bolts on an engine each one set to a different torque. for example an engine mount bolt can be 60 Nm but a valve cover bolt is only 10 Nm.

Not easy to get away with the crank get hot and most of the time
get marked or hot spots replacing bearing maybe a short time fix
ive done it .take emery. Cloth and shine the crank up as much as you can .if bearing spun forget it replace crank .good luck

it is good mechanical practice to replace all bolts that are operating under tension. That includes con rod bolts , big end bolts fly wheel bolts , head studs and crank shaft bolt. Some manuals recommend the replacement of cam shaft sprocket bolts as well. This practice is recommended where the engine is driven at high rpms. It is recommended practice because the tension effect actually twists the bolt and this combined with the tensional stress makes the bolts prone to failure. As it adds considerably to the cost many mechanics do not follow the practice but will charge for the new bolts as well.

There is a thing called bearing crush that has to be measured to ensure correct bearing shaft clearance. What is happening is that when you do the caps up to correct tension the ends of the bearing shells deform and jam on the shaft causing it to lock. It comes from incorrect shell sizing or the crank is oval and needs to be ground . To determine the amount of crush Do both bolts up to tension then undo one bolt and see what gap is there from the use of feeler gauges between the cap and the con rod or the cap and the block. This distance should be halved and the shims to that thickness place around both the bolts before re-tensioning. Bearing crush is used to ensure that the shells will not spin in the caps and are tight to assist with the heat transfer from the con rods and main bearings.. You may have to find an old mechanic or old engine rebuilder to get the explanation as most young mechanics are not taught about it now.

if you have a rebuild kit. the specs are listed in the instructions.. if not call the parts store with engine info and they can tell you...

Well my friend from my Experience with Renault kangoo all i can say is they all have that problem with that injection pump and If i were you I would go to a junkyard and get one from a wrecked car because it will cost you lot of $$$$ to get that pump. and if you get a pump just put it in i dont think that would matter because it will fail when it suppose to just like your old one. Good luck

whats the torque setting for big end bearing bolt and cylinder head bolt for toyota corolla 12 valve 2E,1990.

2002 2.0L Duratech.

Don't have 2004 2.3L

• NOTE: Use new connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
  NOTE: Do not fully tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts at this stage.
  Install the bearing caps.

• Rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and insert pistons 2 and 3.

• Position the corresponding bearing shells, clean and free of oil, into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.

• Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.

1. NOTE: The crankshaft must rotate freely, if necessary check and adjust the bearing clearances.
   Tighten the main bearing and connecting rod bearing bolts.
   1. Tighten the main bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 25 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 60 degrees.
   1. Tighten the connecting rod bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 35 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 90 degrees.