Have a Vitara 1992 G16a Motor flushed water from radiator and have added coolant as required temp goes up above 3/4 and when turn the motor off the coolant from radiator rushes back into the overflow and when motor is cold the radiator is very low on water no leaks to be found, motor goes wll doent smoke and no water in the engine oil

You could be losing coolant through the head gasket into your motor oil. Remove your oil cap. See if moisture and white gunk is on the oil cap. If there is, then the head gasket is defective.

do a full system flush on the radiator and engine and the lines to the heater. flush them out. also change the thermostat and the temp switch, the temp switch sensor is the one with only one wire on it with either a 11mm or 13mm head on it depending what one was fitted. after it is flushed reconnect the pipes add the water and antifreeze, when all clean in the system the water should come out clean. 50/50 water antifreeze should be used. leave the top off the header tank and run the engine with the heater on number one. keep squashing the pipes as the engine warms up to help get the air out and keep the header tank full to the top. when the fan kicks in to cool the rad turn off the engine and leave to cool down when cool top up to the line and put the cap back on. wile you are doing the bleeding you should see the temp go up. if the heat goes to or above a 100 and the fan does not come on then the fan switch or motor may need changing, thermostats last for around 5 years, temp switches can last up to 5 years temp switch for the fan can be around 3 to 8 years.

Remember that coolant is poison, so many places (communities) really frown on draining the coolant onto the ground or pouring it down the drain, as it pollutes the water supply.
In some communities it is illegal.
Myself, I usually reuse it, because of the above.
If it is old, add "water pump lubricant " and "anti-foam.anti/rust" to "rejuvenate it".
Find the drain on the radiator, should be at the bottom of the radiator, and may be really hard to find.
Usually it is on the opposite side than the lower radiator hose connection.
The slow way is to open that drain and put a garden hose in the top of the radiator and keep the radiator full as the motor is running and the heater is on full blast.
Doing it this way should take half an hour or more. You are looking for the water running out the bottom of the radiator to be clear and tasteless.
Tasting it after it is running clear will help determine if the collant is all gone.
A tiny drop to taste will not hurt you.
Coolant is "sweet" tasting.
A faster way, and much more work, is to remove the top end of the radiator hose that attaches to the radiator to drain the system.
You will need to plug the top radiator hole where you took the hose off with a rag or something, and run a hose from the loose radiator hose to wherever you are wanting the "waste" water to go.
You still must keep the radiator full as you run the motor.
This way should take 5 minutes of flushing after the thermostat opens and the water starts flowing.
After the water runs clear. turn off the motor and the garden hose that kept the radiator hose full.
After all the water stops running out, close up everything, and fill the radiator with straight coolant, not the 50/50 blend, because you will have the motor full of water, and adding straight coolant will give you your 50/50 blend when you are all done.
Be sure to leave the heater on full blast, and run the motor for 5 minutes to "burp" the air out of the heater.
Be blessed.

Sounds like a bad water pump or radiator. Make sure the radiator fins arent clogged or inside of radiator, water pump not circulating the coolant properly will also cause overheating, old coolant will not properly dissipate heat efficiently and may need flushed. Also make sure the coolant has a 50% mix of water as the water does most of the cooling not the antifreeze. Hope this gives you some good places to start.

you might want to see if the cooling fan is working at the radiator.if its not then the fan motor may be no good.by putting the blower motor on you are giving the system air flow to pull heat out of the cooling system by it blowing air over the heater core.you can remove the plug on the fan motor and connect jumper wires directly from power and ground to the connectors on the fan motor,if the fan doesn`t work then the cooling fan motor will have to be replaced.you also could have a thermostat that is not opening all the way causing a rise in engine temperature.

Could be a faulty sender, but first go through the checklist following:-

1) Check engine cooling fan/s are operating as required when engine temp rises above cut-in threshold - check fan control relay is ok,
2) Check for collapsing radiator hose on suction side of water-pump when motor revs raised above idle.
3) Check coolant reservoir pressure cap is serviceable,
4) Check coolant system is properly filled - carry out any bleed off procedure specified to clear any air locks- (ensure heater core coolant flow is turned on).
5) Check condition of radiator core:-
i) for blockage of air flow to (bugs/grass etc),
ii) for core internal blockage to coolant flow,

Ensure motor tune or other motor mechanical condition is not the cause of overheating, I assume the motor is actually running hot, - ensure the high gauge reading is not just a gauge sender problem. Check cooling fans are operating ok (as necessary when car warms up):- if not check
1) fuse,
2) relay operation,
3) heat sensor switch.

Check the coolant pressure cap is serviceable & of correct rating,
Ensure cooling system is correctly filled, bleed off any airlocks as necessary when re-filling,
Ensure radiator hose on suction side of waterpump is not collapsing at engine revs above idle (due softening),
If the motor has been severely overheated, the head gasket could be blown - look for combustion gas bubbles in the coolant resevoir.

If none of the above fix your problem, replace the thermostat again - it is not unheard of for a new thermostat to be faulty .

Good Day,

Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.

Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck

Had this problem and one thing that even Chilton manuals only show in fine print sorta say is that Jeep cherokee has a relay sensor for the coolant fan usualy right behind the passenger or driver side headlight you may have to remove the bumper also its rather easy.Its a liitle black box thats screwd down on the panel just unscrew it unplug it replace mine ran me around $60.00.Before I learned about this after replacing the thermostate and just about to rip out the water pump my buddy told me about the sensor after replacing over a year ago no problems.