My car was stuck in the snow and I was accelerating to get it out the ABS light came on and my brake pedal locked. the car will shift into D but wont move. how can I go about unlocking the brakes?

Hi Judy , what kind of vehicle do you have ? Year an model ? ABS light has nothing to do with it not coming out of park . Problem with automatic transmission shift lock control ! Probably !
The automatic transmission shift lock control is a safety device that prevents an inadvertent shift out of PARK when the ignition is ON. The driver must press the brake pedal before moving the shift lever out of the PARK position. The system consists of the following components:
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The automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid.

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The automatic transmission shift lock control switch.

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The park/neutral safety switch.

With the ignition in the ON position, battery positive voltage is supplied to the automatic transmission shift lock control switch. The circuit continues through the normally-closed switch to the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid. The park/neutral safety switch provides a path to ground for the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid in the PARK position. This energizes the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid, mechanically locking the shift linkage in the PARK position. When the driver presses the brake pedal the contacts in the automatic transmission shift lock control switch open, causing the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid to de-energize. This allows the shift lever to move from the PARK position. When the shift lever is out of the PARK position the contacts in the neutral safety switch open and the automatic transmission shift lock control solenoid is de-energized.

One of the things is a lock-out switch on the brake pedal lever. Some are coordinated with the gearshift, the Keyswitch, and the starter Relay. Check to see if the brake lights work when you press on the brake pedal. If no signal is going to the brake lights, then there is a chance that the Park shift lever, the steering wheel and the Keyswitch are bound up.

Sometimes a steering wheel is at the extreme reach of the travel in the front suspension. This can sometimes happen in cold weather when the car is sitting on ice or snow. When the ice or snow melts, the front tires settle into a position that puts pressure on the steering wheel and loads Torque up the steering column. Another possibility is that the car was bumped in the Parking lot and jammed into a position creating Torque on the steering column.

Last, the tumbler inside the Keyswitch could have fallen apart and that is why the mechanism is not releasing the steering wheel.

There are adjustments in the Keyswitch to be at the correct position to work with the lockout at the bottom of the steering column.

Some year models have a electric lock on the brake pedal lever under the dash. Usually you can check it by pressing the brake pedal and observing the brake lights. If you lose this signal, the shift lever will not move from Park.

There can also be a shift rod inside the steering column which is linked to the ignition key. The shift rod can also be affected by the brake pedal switch failing to release the selector from Park. All 3 parts, ignition shift rod, brake pedal switch, and transmission release are adjusted together. Meaning if 1 does not work, the other 2 can be affected.

Is the break pedal stiff? with the ABS light on and the break light on sounds like your breaks might be locked or locking up which could be why the transmission isn't shifting

Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)
Purpose Anti-lock brake systems (ABS) - generally also referred to as anti-lock
systems (ALS) - are designed to prevent the vehicle wheels from locking
as a result of the service brake being applied with too much force, especially
on slippery road surfaces.
The idea is to maintain cornering forces on braked wheels to ensure that
the vehicle or vehicle combination retains its driving stability and manoeuvrability
as far as physically possible. The available power transmission
or grip between tyres and carriageway should also be utilised as
far as possible to minimise the braking distance and maximise vehicle
deceleration.
Why ABS? Although today commercial vehicle brakes are designed to a very high
technical standard, braking on slippery roads often results in potentially
dangerous situations. During full or even partial braking on a slippery
road it may no longer be possible to fully transfer the braking force onto
the road due to the low coefficient of friction (friction coefficient (k)) between
the tyres and the carriageway. The braking force is excessive and
the wheels lock up. Locked wheels no longer provide any grip on the
road and are almost incapable of transferring any cornering forces
(steering and tracking forces). This often has dangerous consequences:
- The vehicle becomes unsteerable
- The vehicle breaks away in spite of countersteering, and starts to
swerve.
- The braking distance is significantly increased
- Tractor-trailer combinations or semitrailer trains may break away or
jackknife.
Load sensing valve influence On dry roads today's load sensing valves (ALB) alone are often capable
of preventing the wheels from locking if the vehicle is unladen; they also
help the driver to effectively grade the braking process on wet road surfaces,
but they are unable to prevent locking as such (no slip monitoring).
In addition, they are unable to counteract any overreactions on the
part of the driver, or any variances in frictional or adhesion coefficients
which may apply to different sides of the vehicle, or indeed to its different
axles (?-split road surfaces).
Benefits of ABS: Only the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
- guarantees stable braking characteristics on all road surfaces.
- maintains steerability and generally reduces the braking distance
- prevents vehicle combinations from jackknifing
- reduces tyre wear.
Limits of ABS Although ABS is an effective safety device, it can not suspend the limits
defined by driving physics. Even a vehicle fitted with ABS will become
uncontrollable if driven too fast around a corner.
So ABS is not a licence for a maladjusted style of driving or failure to observe
the correct safety distance.
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ABS Training Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR)
Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR)
Why ASR? Increasing the engine output (accelerating) on a slippery road surface
can easily lead to the maximum adhesion on one or all powered wheels
being exceeded causing them to spin, especially if the vehicle is unladen
or partially laden.
Spinning wheels when driving off or accelerating represent a safety risk
just like locked wheel do when braking.
Reasons - Wheels that spin transfer just as little cornering force as locked
wheels.
- They also no longer transfer any tractive power onto the road.
Consequences - Vehicles that do not move or get stuck.
- Vehicles that can no longer be steered, jackknife on uphill uphill
gradients, or swerve in corners.
Benefits of ASR ASR prevents the powered wheel from spinning and provides the following
benefits:
- Tractive power and cornering forces are maintained.
- Stable driving behaviour is ensured when moving off, accelerating
and negotiating corners on slippery roads.
- The indicator lamp (if installed) is used to warn the driver of slippery
road conditions.
- Tyre wear is reduced to a minimum, and the motor vehicle's drive
train protected
- The risk of accidents is further reduced.
ASR and ABS: ASR represents a worthwhile addition to an ABS-controlled braking system.
All that is required to turn ABS control into full ABS/ASR control is
an ECU with the additional ASR function and a few additional components
for controlling the differential brake and the engine. This why ASR
is only available in combination with ABS.
Even a differential lock for off-road use and ASR do not exclude but complement
each other.
Limits of ASR The traction capacity of an all-wheel driven commercial vehicle can not
be achieved by a motor vehicle with only one driving axle - not even with
optimal ASR.

try disconnecting the rods from the ignition switch shift lever inhibitor.this is basically the mechanism which prevents you from turning the ignition switch to the 'lock' position when the shift lever is not in the 'park' position

If you are still stuck in the driveway, that's why the ABS light is still on. Get a snow shovel and dig the car out. Once you get the car on the road and all the wheels are turning the same speed the ABS light will most likely go off. It doesn't hurt anything to drive the car with the ABS light on. What that light is telling you is, the "Antilock Brake System" (ABS) is not working. The brakes will still work but, the antilock portion will not, so when you hit a icy patch, the wheels can lock during braking. The ABS senses the speed of all the wheels and if you have been spinning the wheel in the snow, it throws the system out of sychronization. Once you get out of the snow and you start to drive the light will go off, if the system is in working order. The light should go off in a block or two, if not stop the car shut the engine off and restart it. Try it again and see if the goes off, if not there's a problem with the system, get it to a shop.

That "grindy" feeling is when the ABS kicks in. It's only suppose to activate when you slam on the brakes and the wheels would normally lock. Instead, ABS will very quickly pump the brakes on and off, to prevent the wheels from locking (making a giant skid mark) and stopping the car more effectively. Generally this only happens if you slam on the brakes or loose traction due to rain or snow while braking. If this is happening often and the brake light is on, on the dash, then you need to get this checked out by a qualified mechanic ASAP.

Could be brake light switch

If your brake lights don't work Its because you blew the fuse  which Is located In the main fuse panel under steering wheel.  Without break lights your rover will fire up nice but wont shift out of park until you replace the fuse.  If your ABS Is acting up It Is also an easy fix.  Disconnect the ABS from each wheel.  You still got all wheel disc breaks that work great but no ABS.  Your other option is  thousands of $$.  If your breaks are weak check your master cylinder and make sure you got enough fluid and that you are not loosing the fluid.  If you notice you are leaking brake fluid because you have to keep filling it up but cannot find a leak anywhere.  I bet I know where It is.  Check your rear break lines and make sure one of them didn't get caught in your rear springs and pinched ever so slightly when you were doing dounuts In the snow.
Good luck,