Question about 1994 Ford Bronco
50 amp fuse, not blown, no other fuse blows. 12 volts on ground side of fuse, w/key in on position fuse removed. causing fuel pump relay not activating because in already has 4 to 5 volts on it.50 amp fuse also feeds 3 fusable links inside under dash that goes to the ignition, hot all the time.
Fuse E is 15 amps, not 50 and does not have a "ground side". The fuel pump relay receives power through 20A fuse O. The fuse links are "hot all the time" because they are connected directly to the positive post of the battery.
Posted on May 16, 2014
Testimonial: "the 50 amp fuse is N. that has 12 volts on both sides w/key in on position, i am checking other fuses that is associates with it, which is E,& inside box 1,7,9 & 16,possibly causing a back feed of 12 volts, have any other suggestion?"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you replaced fuel pump i would look at backward wiring when replaced and i would start at the source of work if your vehicle was working fine before replacement then 9 out of 10 it will be your fuel pump wireing
sometimes when putting wireing back together the connectors have the missing clip and in turn you can turn the wireing in both directions now where positive is touching the ground on both sides of connector kris kross problem check your work this is crucial use a test light to find the right wires where they go
Posted on May 26, 2008
Try disconnecting your alternator temporarily. It may have a shorted diode but that would also normally drain the battery too unless it charges over a relay.
The starter relay can't cause this alone and the currents through the ignition switch mostly control relays. If removing the alternator cable didn't work, I would remove the starter (only a few bolts) after disconnecting the ground cable from your battery and try turning it by hand. It should be stiff but not impossible and if it refuses to turn, it may have a short from the field to the case. It isn't really possible to use a multimeter to check the starter's windings because they are very low resistance when normal (the beast draws 120-200 amps to start) and would look like shorts on a standard meter anyhow.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
try cleaning the connector that goes to the fuel pump, sometimes they corrode on inside. If that does not fix, test the wires feeding fuel pump with a multi meter until the condition shows itself again, if voltage drops to zero or very low then wiring problem, if voltage is unchanged with problem and fuel pump is not working and connectors are all clean, try replacement of fuel pump.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
SOURCE: On my 1996 ford explorer
The problem will most likely be between the ignition switch and the interior fuse panel if it goes as soon as you turn key to "on".
If it were after the interior fuse panel, the fuses within the interior panel would blow.
You will need to look at the wiring out of the switch for a short to ground. Perhaps the harness is rubbed through under the dash.
The gray/yellow, light green/pink and black/light green are the ones that power up when key turned on.
If it blows when the starter is tried look at the red/light blue out of the switch. This is what activates the starter circuit.
This circuit is also protected in the interior fuse panel so another reason I suspect the problem is under the dash near the ignition switch.
Check it out and let me know if you need more assistance.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Feb 19, 2011
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