2005 Chevy Silverado 4.3 not getting any power to my ignition coil.

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to category.

POWER WIRES

• Constant 12V / Memory Keep Alive: Yellow
• Accessory: Red
• Dimmer/illumination: Orange w/white stripe

GROUND WIRES

• Ground: black

SPEAKERS

• Right front speaker(+): Gray
• Right front speaker(-): Gray w/black stripe
• Left front speaker(+): White
• Left front speaker(-): White w/black stripe
• Right rear speaker(+): Purple
• Right rear speaker(-): Purple w/black stripe
• Left rear speaker(+): Green
• Left rear speaker(-): Green w/black stripe

AMPLIFIER AND ANTENNA WIRES

• Antenna: Blue
• Amplifier remote turn on: Blue w/white stripe

https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+chevrolet+colorado+radio+wiring+diagram

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You have dis ignition, correct? You have a coil pack, no distributor? Note the diagram. Take connector loose from icm, use both ends of test light between pink wire, voltage, and solid black wire, ground. Check with key on, If test light comes on, you have voltage and ground to icm and problem is elsewhere. Just a thought? good luck

The clicking noise at the relay indicates that the relay is bad, or that the wires to the relay and/or connector is bad.

A relay is an electronically activated switch. Inside is a coil. When 12v+ is applied to one end of the coil, and a ground is applied to the other end, the coil gets charged, creating a magnetic field. This magnetic field literally moves a metal lever from position A to position B. One end of the lever is attached to constant battery power. When coil not energized, the lever rests in postion A (which in the case of the fuel pump relay is feeding the battery power to an unused terminal). When the coil is activated, the lever moves to position B (which in this case is a terminal connected to your fuel pump wire). Thus, when the relay is activated, 12v+ is being directed from the battery to the fuel pump.

This fast clicking indicates that the relay coil is not getting a constant voltage or ground supplied to it, thus the lever is moving back and forth between position A and position B, either there is a wiring issue, a connector issue, or an internal issue with the relay.
The relay has 4 wires, black, grey, orange, green with white stripe.
black = ground
orange = battery = 12v+ always
grey = wire out to fuel pump (on some cars this wire is tan with white stripe)
green/white = signal wire from ECM

When key is turned ON, the ECM sends 12v+ out on the green/white wire to the relay for about 2 seconds - this activates the relay coil for 2 seconds, thus running the pump for 2 seconds (priming). When the vehicle is started, the ECM sees a constant ignition signal from the ignition module, and sends a constant 12v+ out on the green/white wire, thus activating the relay coil constantly, and thus running the pump constantly.
When car shut off, no more constant ignition signal, thus ECM stops sending the 12v+ out on the green/white wire.
So, you can kind of test your connector ...
1) remove connector from relay
2) jumper a wire from the slot for the orange wire to the slot for the grey wire - fuel pump should run - wiggle wires to verify at connector
3) probe black wire slot with ohm meter - make sure black wire has constant ground - wiggle wires at connector
test relay ...
1) remove relay from connector
2) rig a ground wire to the tab that had the black wire when in connector
3) apply 12v+ to the tab that had the green/white wire - relay should click once and do this every time you apply the 12v+

That should help you track it down to either a connector problem, a wiring problem, or a relay problem.

Do you have power going to the coil, and a ground signal coming from the distributor ?

Check the coil ground wire. Positive should be Brown with a White Stripe and ground should be Dark Blue with a Dark Green Stripe.If it is frayed and grounding out, it will keep the coil active and make it overheat and crack. If you can get ahold of a noid light set (they are actually for testing injector pulse) or rig up some test wires and a test light in the pins on the connecter, the light should flash rapidly at half the engine speed. (once every other revolution to fire the spark plug) If it is staying on then it probably means a short circuit. You have to ground the test light through the connector, because the computer controls the coil on the ground side. Meaning, you should have constant power on the positive pin with the ignition on

which engine

12V CONSTANT WIRE RED and PINK/BLACK Ignition harness
12V IGNITION WIRE DARK BLUE Ignition harness
12V ACCESSORY WIRE BLACK/ORANGE Ignition harness
STARTER WIRE YELLOW Ignition harness
PARKING LIGHTS (+) BLACK/YELLOW At Headlight switch
POWER DOOR LOCK (5-wire reverse polarity) ORANGE/PURPLE Harness Coming Into Vehicle From Driver's
Door
POWER DOOR UNLOCK (5-wire reverse
polarity)
PINK/PURPLE Harness Coming Into Vehicle From Driver's
Door
DOOR TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/BLACK At Headlight Switch
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION (-) Use door trigger
TRUNK TRIGGER (-) GRAY/BLACK At Light In Trunk
TACHOMETER WIRE TAN/BLUE or BLACK/GRAY At Ignition Coil
BRAKE WIRE (+) WHITE/BROWN At Brake Pedal Switch
HORN TRIGGER (-) BLACK/RED Harness Coming From Steering Wheel At
Column
CAUTION! SRS airbag wires are not enclosed in protective loom at the steering column. They are a twisted pair of wires that run with rest of
ignition harness. Be careful not to cut or probe these wires.

Radio:

(Black plug)
Rear Right speaker -: Blue w/White stripe
Rear Left speaker -: Brown w/Yellow stripe
Front Right +: Purple
Front Left +: Dark Green
Rear Right speaker +: Blue w/Orange Stripe
Rear Left speaker +: Brown w/Blue Stripe
Power Antenna/Amp: White
(Gray Plug)
+12v battery wire: Pink or Pink w/White Stripe
+12v Ignition wire: Red w/ White Stripe
Front Right speaker -: Blue w/ Red Stripe
Front Left speaker -: Brown w/ Red Stripe

I think this is the right table, but I don't know if it will display right. If not, go to http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/GM/PDF/460005.pdf

Typical GM Factory Typical New Radio
Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color Equivalent Wire Color
A Left Front Spkr (-) Light Gray White w/ Black Stripe
B Left Front Spkr (+) Tan White
C Right Front Spkr (-) Light Green Gray w/ Black Stripe
D Right Front Spkr (+) Dark Green Gray
E Ground Wire Black Black
F Not Used
G Headlight Dimmer Wire Gray Orange (if available)
H Power Antenna Turn On Pink Blue
I +12 Volt Ignition Wire Yellow Red
J +12 Volt Battery Wire Orange Yellow
K Right Rear Spkr (-) Light Blue Purple w/ Black Stripe
L Right Rear Spkr (+) Dark Blue Purple
M Left Rear Spkr (-) Yellow Green w/ Black Stripe
N Left Rear Spkr (+) Brown Green

1989-1990 And Newer
AS VIEWED FROM MATING END OF CONNECTOR
A B C D E F G H I J
K L M N
Typical GM Factory Typical New Radio
Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color Equivalent Wire Color
A Left Front Spkr (-) Light Gray White w/ Black Stripe
B Left Front Spkr (+) Tan White
C Right Front Spkr (-) Light Green Gray w/ Black Stripe
D Right Front Spkr (+) Dark Green Gray
E Ground Wire Black Black
F Not Used
G Headlight Dimmer Wire Gray Orange (if available)
H Power Antenna Turn On Pink (if available) Blue
I +12 Volt Ignition Wire Yellow Red
J +12 Volt Battery Wire Orange Yellow
K Right Rear Spkr (-) Light Blue Purple w/ Black Stripe
L Right Rear Spkr (+) Dark Blue Purple
M Left Rear Spkr (-) Yellow Green w/ Black Stripe
N Left Rear Spkr (+) Brown Green
Smaller sized

white is front left. greay is front right. green is rear left . purple is rear right. black is ground .yellow is power. red is ignition. or do u need factory wiring? the12volt.com try this website it is very helpfull