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Locate the blower motor and look around the outside and close to the motor for a 2-by-3-inch plate held on by two or four small screws. There will be an electrical connector plugged into it with five or six wires, depending on the vehicle type and heating and air conditioning type of control panel. Test the resistor before replacing it. It is always recommended to test any electronic unit before replacing because there are a multitude of things that could cause the same symptoms. It only takes a few minutes and can qualify the assumption that a part is bad. It will save money to replace or repair the right part the first time. Check the speeds by turning the fan conrol to all positions. Take note which fan speeds work and which speeds do not work. If the fan works only on one speed the blower motor resistor is very likely bad.
Check the fuses if the fan speeds do not work. The fuses for the interior heating and air conditioning fan are usually under the hood in the fuse and relay center. If the fuse looks good, then take it out and turn the ignition key on and use the volt meter set at 20 volts DC. Check to make sure that there is voltage to the fuse. If not, check for an open circuit to the fuse.
Check the relay to determine if there is power at the fuse. The relay should have two of the four terminals showing power. With the key on and the fan turned on, remove the relay and put it back in, listening for it to click. If it does not click, then replace the relay. Check the voltage at the electrical connector on the blower motor resistor to see if the fuse and relay are good. Make sure that power is present at the connector with the key on and the fan switch on. There should be power at two terminals of the blower motor resistor. If only one terminal has power, replace the resistor. If two terminals have power, replace the blower motor itself. Remove the screws and unplug the connector to remove the blower motor resistor. Put the new one in its place by screwing it back in and plugging in the wiring connector.
You will have to test those parts to see which one is bad......either that or replace both parts, one at a time, and hope you get the right on, on the first try. Also, when the blower resistor goes bad, it usually still works on the highest speed but not any others. BTW, has anyone tested the actual fan blower motor, to see if IT might be bad?
The resistor is located under the hood on the passenger side. At the
back of the engine compartment you need to locate the airbox it can be
identified by a circular piece that's right beside the fender on the
firewall (this is your blower motor) to the right if it (looking from
the front of the truck) about 4 -6" you will see a wire plug. Unplug
this connector and locate the four screws that attach it to the air box.
Remove these screws and pull the resistor from the housing.
Three possibilities. AND all you can do yourself!
1. Hi/Low Blower Relay. However these usually fail on low and works on High.
2. Blower Control Switch.
3. Blower Motor Resistor.
If you do not have one: buy a Voltmeter, available for $6 at Walmart.
If you do not have one: buy a Haynes or Chilton Manual at most auto parts stores for $20-$25 dollars. I say this because you are obviously going to keep this vehicle. It will have most of the information with pictures to assist you.
Quickest way to determine which one?
Finding the Resistor....Go on line to autozone.com or advanceauto.com. Answer the questions on year, make, model and engine and go to "look up parts" or click on "Replacement Parts".
Pull up the Hi/Low Blower Relay.
Know you know what you are looking for.
This Relay is located near the Blower Motor.
The System goes: Switches, Relay and/or Resistor, Motor.
Unplug the electrical connection from the Switches going to the Relay.
Turn the engine on. Turn the Selector to Low and using a voltmeter, check for voltage coming from the Switch. Turn to High and rechaeck for voltage coming fom the Switch. No voltage on High? The Switch is bad.
Do the same with the Relay to Resistor connection and or Relay/Resistor to Motor connection. Check the Low and the High voltages.
Let me know if this helped or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
no. the relays coil is fused # 12 fuse 10 amp and the other side is going directly to ground. the main power for blower goes through that relay and it is fused at # 107 and it is a 40 amp fuse. now the heater control unit witch is what they dials are controls the ground to the blower motor at different resistances with is determine by the dial to change speed.
now if you don't have power with key on at the blower motor i would check them to fuses and if they are okay you need to check the ground at relay socket witch will be the corresponding cavity for # 85 on the relay. if you have all of that and sill no power at blower replace relay.
but to tell you what i see most common is the blower resistor for the motor.
let me know if you have any more question and good luck
check for voltage at the blower motor on all settings. if no voltage check the blower motor resistor or relay. if it has a resistor it will be right beside the blower motor, if it has a relay it will be the relay on the firewall under the hood.it will probably have a purple,orange,blue,and black wires. as you said it works directly.it can be resistor or relay.the blower is fine.thanks.
Bencar1 is right. The problem is probably the resistor. But it also could be a burned terminal in the 4 prong plug that attaches to the resistor. There will be burn marks on one of the prongs of the resistor if this is it. Look for the obvious. Good luck.