Engine Cutoff HERES A QUESTION THAT STUMPS THE PRO'S. CAN THE ALTERNATOR ON A 1999 DODGE 2.7 PROPERLY CHARGE THE BATTERY AND NOT SEND POWER TO THE PCM WHICH THERE IS A SEPERATE FIELD CIRCUIT JUST FOR IT? I HAVE CHECKED OR REPLACED VIRTUALLY EVERY SENSOR, CIRCUIT OR COMPONENT , WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE ALT. THE CAR WILL BE RUNNING FINE THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN START MISFIRING, BACKFIRING, AND EVENTUALLY QUIT. RUNS GREAT WHEN IT RUNS. ENGINE WILL START AND RUN UNTIL THE KEY IS RELEASED INTO THE RUN POSTION FROM THE START POSITION. THANKS TB

Diode cud be bad. If batt drains overnite. Send issue to [email protected]. Hes xpert on any car

NOT THE VAN but PEEEKUPs
and old car and old alernators and gee old cars have wrong parts here seen it vast times, and know why it fails all ways it can.

13.4 to 15vdc running above 800 or at RPM is normal not less.
there 3 kinds of ALT for 25 years.
1 wire (means reg is in the ALT )
external reg type and last (old old old)
and ECU has the regulator. modern cars most are this.
i will now read your service many too , chapter.

question1:
does the dash have the Idiotttt lap called charge
and if burned out many cars then ,made the boot trap current dead in the alternator making the alternator regulator inside dead.
born dead, unit lamp fixed or forced to excite as you just did.
that is correct removing alternator in any car with main battery connected does in fact blow up the 2 huge fuses, in bay or the fuselink, saving harness fire. alt to main harness. large wire.

i can not find an accurate schematic for this alt.

but buying shows is external reglator, only at delco
the alt rear has 2 lugs (+ out) field + and field -) and must not be reversed, and may need polarizing and not down backwards.

how hint #1 seen on the web (I have no PCM schematic sorry)


The alternator on your Dodge Ram pick-up (except diesel) is computer controlled. To be a bit more specific, the alternator's voltage regulator is located inside the PCM.
Besides the voltage regulator, the PCM also uses a Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) to control the alternator and this bad boy (the BTS) is also part of the internal circuitry of the PCM. In other words, this sensor is also part of the PCM. Its job is to sense battery temperature so that the PCM can adjust the alternator's charging rate.
oops found this, 5 things to fail includes PCM
2 fuses, and ASD relay and ALT,.
this what modern cars do now. and makes the battery last longer with way smarter PCM controls.

Check for codes. Get it on a pro grade scan tool computer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+chevy+hhr+alternator+relay+location

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/no-power-my-alternator-58394/page2/

Lots more here

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+chevy+hhr+alternator+not+charging

..

check the black/orange wire at the alternator for battery voltage if no power check the fuesable link ( A )

check the orange/light blue wire at the alternator for battery voltage if no power check the fuesable links ( B & C )

check the light green/red wire for 12 volt with the engine running if no power replace the PCM.

if all wires have the proper voltage then replace the alternator

GOOD LUCK

It sounds like charging system failure to me. Most likely a bad alternator. The entire charging system needs to be checked including the battery, the battery cables and connections and the alternator and alternator circuits.

Just to help you understand.....the reason your dome lamps started coming on is because they are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) (AKA Body Computer) The body computer did not have enough power going to it to function properly and this is what caused your dome lamps to come on (Computers do all kinds of WIERD things when they start getting delirious from malnutrition).
Then as the charging system voltage got even lower, this is what caused the headlamps to go dim. Finally, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (AKA Engine Computer) did not have enough power to function proerly and this caused your engine to shut down.

Diagnose and repair the charging system problem and all should start working properly again.

the PCM (engine computer) does have some control over the alternator. You should have 12 1/2 vilts with the engine off at the battery, and about 14 1/2 volts with the engine running and alternator charging.

Maybe the PCM or Powertrain Control Module, this also controls the alternator by adjusting engine idle speed. In addition to proper alternator's internal regulator operation, also make sure the PCM is reading the alternator output properly.

I had the same problem on a 94 dodge with the cummins. It seems the crank sensor that reads from a notch on the harmonic balancer was the problem Without this sensor reading that the engine is running the alternator wont charge. Possibly the same problem with yours

1st clean the terminals
if that doesnt help try cleaning the battery (properly)
then try slow charging it
if none of these work id say get a new battery cosidering the ave. battery life is like 4-7 years

Check the large probably 100 amp fuse under the PDC cover. Is this a 12 valve or 24 valve engine? If it's a 12 valve, it may be a bad crank sensor. It tells the PCM to turn on the ASD relay which supplies power to the alternator field.