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Under the Hood in the large black fuse box next to the battery. Check fuses 32 and 34. 32 is the Right side and 34 is the left side. Both are 10A.
**Note** ALWAYS replace fuses with one of the same Amp rating.
I assume your referring to replacing a rusted out section of brake tubing?
Buy the tubing at local auto parts,then cut,flair & bend it to match the one your replacing or change the design if you wish to make it easier to install & secure etc.
I would think that this is one of your least expensive fixes, in the long list of possible problems with vehicles. A tech would replace the line and then do a brake system fill and bleed. If it is the only problem, its possible for a tech to do it without removing a single wheel.
On the rear differential there will either be a metal plug or a rubber plug. The metal plug can be removed with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet. the rubber plug can be removed with a small screwdriver. Faceing the axle from the rear will see the plug to the right side on the cover plate. Remember to also check the front differential as well. Hope this will help you.
red brake light on, low fluid in resovior or park swicth is grd , trans light is on but you didnt say if it's trans or eng over heating, I wil assume it's trans, chech fiter in pan and cooler flow, possible restriction, remove rear cooler line to back of trans left side , stick a hose on it, put trans in nuetral, and start eng , should empty the fluid of trans in about 1 minute, nice good flow, jaust a trickle and you have a blocked cooler or lines. GOOD LUCK RDJRP
Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.
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