So if it's not consuming oil and you are SURE to fill the radiator to PROVE it's not burning coolant ... then the other suspects are head gasket and .... A puff of smoke upon start-up could be caused by valve guide seals allowing some oil to leak down into the cylinders while the car is parked and not running. This would be pretty common on a nine year old car and should not, in most cases, be cause for concern - See more at: http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2280708/white-smoke-from-exhaust-upon-cold-start#sthash.05fuptIx.dpuf
If it's blue-white then What you might be seeing is oil burn-off from leaking valve guide seals. The next time you have the oil/filter changed, have a high mileage oil installed. - See more at: http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2294478/white-smoke-coming-from-the-tail-pipe#sthash.jVo0zDhw.dpuf
SOURCE: 2000 maxima overheating
You have a new radiator and thermostat, so your coolant was flushed. Was the radiator "burped" afterward to get rid of air bubbles? If not, that needs to be done first - it would explain virtually every symptom you're seeing.
Jack up the car so that the radiator cap is elevated. With the coolant
topped off, start the car and let it run until it's about 3/4 of the
way to overheating. Then shut it down and go have a beer. When it cools
off enough to safely open the radiator cap, do so, and any air trapped
in the system will bleed out.
What you're doing is circulating
the coolant and the air bubbles inside. The bubbles get lodged behind
the thermostat and stay there, keeping it from opening (this causes the
car to heat up). When you later pop the cap off the radiator, the
pressure is vented from the system, the thermostat opens, and the
bubbles pass through. They'll work their way to the radiator (since
you've got it elevated) and pop out the open cap opening.
Your
coolant level will likely drop somewhat after doing this, as the air
bubbles will be gone and the space they took up in the system is now
available. You may need to add a little more coolant, so top if off
(with the car back on the ground) and recap the radiator, fill the
overflow to the marked point on the tank, and you're good to go.
Try this if you haven't already, and post back up with your results. If it doesn't solve the problems, we'll take it further.
SOURCE: 1989 Cavalier Z24 3.1 rough idle and hesitation
I had the same problem with my Z when i had it. But it worked when i just left the little hose off of the EGR valve.
SOURCE: 98 Deville Northstar temp runs up to 240 when idle
Yes it is headgasket. Mine had same problem. Yours might not be severe as of now, you can try these other solutions. THERMAGASKET... Which you can buy online, and get your money back if it does not work... And stuff in a bottle at Autozone Repair headgasket with NanoTechnology! I would try and sell it quick, because these engines are very costly to repair and most mechanics wont even attempt headgasket repair, and plus you have to TimeSert the block...
SOURCE: rough idle on 1999 chevy cavalier z24
Check for vacuum leaks. Spray some carb cleaner or WD40 around the intake manifold, trottle body and any vacuum lines. Check for loose connections on engine wiring harness (Maybe you disconnected a sensor, and forgot to re-attach it?).
SOURCE: 1987 nissan pick up (z24 engine), while driving
blown head gasket between cylinder 2 and 3 ck compression
330 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×