130,000 miles. No leaks, new radiator, new thermostat. Runs cool at idle, fans come on. Under load the temp needle climbs right to the top of the "normal range". Once hot, under light load low RPMs, the temp fluctuates a lot. Could this be a pump problem? Is the pump in this car on the timing chain?
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Re: 2000 maxima overheating
You have a new radiator and thermostat, so your coolant was flushed. Was the radiator "burped" afterward to get rid of air bubbles? If not, that needs to be done first - it would explain virtually every symptom you're seeing.
Jack up the car so that the radiator cap is elevated. With the coolant
topped off, start the car and let it run until it's about 3/4 of the
way to overheating. Then shut it down and go have a beer. When it cools
off enough to safely open the radiator cap, do so, and any air trapped
in the system will bleed out.
What you're doing is circulating
the coolant and the air bubbles inside. The bubbles get lodged behind
the thermostat and stay there, keeping it from opening (this causes the
car to heat up). When you later pop the cap off the radiator, the
pressure is vented from the system, the thermostat opens, and the
bubbles pass through. They'll work their way to the radiator (since
you've got it elevated) and pop out the open cap opening.
coolant level will likely drop somewhat after doing this, as the air
bubbles will be gone and the space they took up in the system is now
available. You may need to add a little more coolant, so top if off
(with the car back on the ground) and recap the radiator, fill the
overflow to the marked point on the tank, and you're good to go.
Try this if you haven't already, and post back up with your results. If it doesn't solve the problems, we'll take it further.
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If the problem is overheating on the highway, your prrboem is the radiator. Your engine produces more heat as it works under a load. sitting at an idle, it doesn't have to work. It's my opinion that the center rows of the radiator core are stopped up or severely restricted. With it using a plastic and aluminum radiator, I would only go with a new one. Out on the highway, it doesn't need the fans to cool the engine off, the movement of the car forces enough air through the radiator to keep the engine cool. Either that, or check for a badly restricted a/c condensor which will inhibit the air flow to the radiator. My choice would be the radiator.Without seeing it I can only give you my best guess. I work with a lot of Nissan's
Hi. Your radiator fan motor may be seized. Should ingage between 95-100 degrees when you parked on idle after achieving full working temp. If it doesn't, check fuse first and than relay responsible for cooling fan( you can find cavity in your owner manual. Let me know. The reason you car is ok while driving is the air going thru your radiator. When you stoped or parked for longer time with no speed there is nothing to cool your radiator. Fix it asap or eventually will cause engine over hit and seize.
Ok, to review, it got hot climbing a mountain, and stayed cool going down the same mountain ? Make sure the mechanic did replace the thermostat, and have somebody check the fan clutch. An exhaust restriction could also cause it to run hot under a load. There is a small chance the water pump impeller is shot inside the water pump and not pushing the coolant thru the system.
i believe the question was explained as fans work!! why all the fan inop answers?? anyway...you will need to check the water pump first...if you change it then make sure your cataltic converters are not plugged. from there its ussually a combustion leak from cracked or defective head gaskets due to the mileage. if it stays cool at idle its deff not a cooling fan problem..the fans only are used primary at idle. hope this helps
you mention big hills, and other wise no problem, you may be taxing the transmission , have a trans cooler installed, it may cure all your problems, and good for the trans, heat is the trans biggest killer
I had problem with overheating on motorway when I drove over 60 mph i changed thermostat,radiator,thermostat housing, nothing helps.Then i find out that the problem was AIR IN THE COOLING SYSTEM try to squeeze all rubber pipes especially where is coming coolant to radiator.
Sounds like you have coolant leak if you are loosing coolant or a bad thermostat. I would replace the thermostat, they run about $10. The other fan is an aux fan and will only run when the a/c unit is on.
The fans are actuated by coolant temp in the radiator. It is possible to have overheated coolant in the radiator, causing the steam, and your engine not overheating...the temp sensor for your engine is reflecting the engine temp, not the temp of the coolant in the radiator. You problem could be a bad temp sensor at the radiator...not allowing the fans to come on. Good Luck! I hope you find this to be very helpful!
I just had my coolant flushed and my radiator cooling fan replaced. The car was slightly overheating and would "gargle" in the coolant bowl after I turned the engine off. It turned out to be the radiator was clogged up on one side.
I went full tilt and replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and timing belt. I have 85,000 miles on the car and it was about time to do these things anyway. It is running like a new car now.