Where do the two black wires from the switch go , orange/black goes to ecm

Tan wire goes from Inj #2 goes to terminal 15 on PCM.
The dark green/orange wire on Inj #2 goes to splice S106 near INJ #4 and then the Ignition coil on right front of engine. So INj #2 gets power on the dark green/orange wire and ground from the PCM.

The green with orange trace comes from fuse F64 30amp. battery junction box. The black with red trace goes to a splice , S24 . from there it changes color to black with blue trace which goes to the blower motor resistor and it also has from the splice a black with orange trace that goes to the blower switch . The switch provides the earth . On high speed the switch directs the current path to ground from the black with orange trace . All the other speeds come through the resistor to ground through the switch . At the connector for the blower switch the black wire is the ground or earth ,how ever you look at it. The switch being burnt indicates high resistance (loose connection ) maybe. Voltage drop test the electrical circuit .

Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia

Could be many things. Orange/green is a power wire, black is ground. Black could be a engine ground or ECM ground. Orange/green is power. 12 Volts. Check engine light on? If not, some plugs don't go to anything. They use one harness for many different models. Yours may not have this option.

is it a spare wire ? the wires from relays are generally all used so it will either go to the switch,horn itself ,earth ,live , usually the earth is black ,the power is red and the switch/ignition live is yellow so i would say the other colour goes to the user in this case the horn, could'nt actually find a orange/silver wire on honda wiring diagram but there is orange/grey hope this helps

I don't usually do diagrams due to copyright laws.
From the fuel pump you have a gray wire and a black wire.
The black is ground and the gray is power from both the pump relay and the oil pressure switch.
The oil pressure switch provides power to the pump once the engine starts.
At the relay, you have a green and white wire that provides power from the ECM with the key switch on. You have an orange wire that provides power from a 15amp fuse.
The gray wire going to the pump, and a black and white wire for ground for the relay.
The ECM provides power for 3 seconds when the key switch is turned on to boost line pressure for startup.

It's not really a switch. Below is a desciption of what the code means. In about 50 percent of the cases it's a bad connection which is causing the failure and there are many tests to check different circuits. In order to rule out the ignitor here is a quick test you can do. Below is a picture of a breakdown of you distributor (yes the ignitor is in the distributor). Take the distributor cap off. Using a digtal volt meter check with your postive probe the black wire terminal connected to the ignition coil and ground the negative probe to a good grouns like the battery. Make sure you are getting at least 10 to 12 volts. If you are check the connection at the brown and black wire between the coil and the ignitor and make sure all is good (like good continuity) If all is good, chances are the ignitor is faulty. If you are not getting the voltage on the first test right at the black wire terminal at the coil the coil could be faulty. As I said it's a 50/50 thing on this code as far as wiring or a componant such as the coil or ignittor. I have found in the past that in most cases if say a coil or ignitor goes bad, it's just bad and you end up in a no start situation but there are those odd cases that outside temps effect everything like engine heat or a componant over heating.Hope this helps and good luck.

Hope this helps:- Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm.
Cavity/Fuse Diagram (1996 Grand Cherokee, passenger side kick plate to find, Owner's Manual pgs 205-206): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Row 1: 1-6 (left to right) Row 2: 7-12 Row 3: 13-18 Row 4: 19-22
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuse Panel (Passenger Side kick panel) Reply

CAVITY FUSE DESCRIPTION 1 -10 amp (RED) Radio 2 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Cigarette Lighter 3 -10 amp (RED) Rear Washer Switch, Body Controller 4 -10 amp (RED) Airbag 5 -10 amp (RED) Lamp Out Module, Overdrive Switch, OBD II 6 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module Park & Side Lamps, Overhead Console Lighted Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 7 -20 amp (Yellow) Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller 8 -20 amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper Motor, Flipper Glass Solenoid, Cargo Lamp, Trailer Tow 9 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Brake Switch 10- 10 amp (RED) Rear Window Defroster 11 -10 amp (RED) ABS Module 12 -10 amp (RED) Heater-Ventilation-A/C Control & Recirculation Motor 13 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Hazard Switch, Turn Signal Switch 14 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 15 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 16 -10 amp (RED) Right & Left Courtesy Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Halo Lamp Cargo Lamp, Underhood Lamp, Dome/Read Lamp Right & Left Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 17 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio Illumination, Tail Lamp, Graphic Display Module, Park & Side Lamps, Headlamp Switch, Body Controller 18 -20 amp (Yellow) Spare 19 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Passing Light 20 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio, Heater-Ventilation-A/C, Vehicle Information Center 21 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Power Outlet 22 -10 amp (Blue) Airbag Module -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC) Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray/White Coil Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm. Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
• Cruise Control Information • Stereo Information • View all Jeep Vehicles

I ASSUME you mean the rear oxygen sensor???? 1 red wire is the o2 signal, the other is the o2 heater ground. the Orange is heater power The red wire in cavity 3 is the heater ground (terminal 20 at ECM). . the #1 cavity is BLACK, #2 RED, #3 RED #4 ORANGE looking at the connector its hard to tell you over print, but #1 is upper right, 2 upper left, 3 lower right, 4 lower left.

The wires should be grey, orange and black, purple, and a black wire. The purple goes to purple, grey to gray. The orange and black goes to the small black wire on your car harness and the black goes to the bigger black.

I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.

Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.