That's a good start , reading up on the BCM ,but also looking at wiring diagrams an learning how to test electrical circuit's using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter are need to diagnose these type problem's . Looking at a wiring diagram to see if the BCM even has anything to do with that system or circuit's . Most people on here just jump in an start replacing thing's they have no clue how they work or why. And if you have no clue about automotive electrical testing you really should learn how before even jumping into something like this . An just replace a BCM without it being programmed correctly could make thing's worst .
Plus you need to be aware of other control modules on the vehicle , like on your vehicle ! It has control modules inside the doors , DDM - driver door module , PDM - passenger door module's etc.... The door modules control the power windows an lock's .Plus you need to be aware of that all this modules share info. an send commands to other modules via a serial data network . Your vehicle has the chrysler CCD data bus .
A broken wire inside the flex boot from the body A pillar to the dirver door could cause power lock's an window problems , but would not affect the other problems you are having . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
Free wiring diagram's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power window's or lock's an you will see the door modules .Plus the BCM has nothing to do with the A/C not working , A/C compressor does not engage or is it the blower motor isn't working ? no air blowing out the vent's ? Your best bet ,take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop .Takes year's to learn how to diagnose these type problems . CCD Chrysler Collision Detection Data Bus
A loose positive battery cable connection will kill a battery in short order. Tighten all the connections including the starter (usually hard to get at - and most likely the culprit).
It is a good idea to check the cables periodically for corrosion, this can also kill your battery. Once you have made sure the connections are free of corrosion and have a tight fit you can recharge your battery or replace it with a new one if the battery is damaged from being undercharged.
Another thing that will kill your battery is the charging system voltage regulator - if it dies your battery will run out of power just running the engine. Modern cars have this part in the alternator and you may or may not be able to replace the regulator. Take your alternator to a parts store or a shop and have it tested. If it is bad and you put a new battery in the car, the new battery will die.
Try the earth and main active leads to the starter motor. Or If you are shorting the solenoid and it starts, there will be a problem with either the active wire from the ignition switch or a poor earth. Check what voltage you are getting to the solenoid from the ignition switch when someone turns the switch on.
Richard Scordino Dec 17, 2010
I can't give you a cure for your problem online as testing MUST be done. Computer scanning and individual Component tests are the only way to verify a failure. If a shop is doing the work, I certainly hope they aren't charging you for iteems replaced that did nothing towards making an adequate repair.
Off hand, I'd be looking for a bad connection such as inside the ignition switch or since you mentioned a timing sensor (there is no such thing) either you replaced the crank position sensor or the cam sensor. Whichever was replaced, check the other one.
Wiring failures most often happen at the connector pins or behind the connector plug where moisture gets in and corrodes the internal connection. All of that needs to be tested for continuity and resistance.