Stalling, 'reduced power' light, and OBD code P1125 Manufacturer control air metering...
Coming to a stop my car suddenly stalls. No sputter- just shuts off as if I'd turned the key off. Wont stay cranked unless I hold the gas just a little. I get home (about a mile away) Get back in- it does the same. A mile later I turn it off and back on. All of the sudden- 'reduced power' light is on along with Check engine light...of course I'm hardly moving. Few miles later, turn off car, turn it back on after short while- it is fine- except check engine light is still on. Driving better the next day- I get Advance Auto to get the trouble code. It says "P1125 Manufacturer control fuel air metering."
Any idea what's going on with my car?
It happened- but acted CRAZIER on a 5 hour trip. Took it to Honda place. They replaced the Throttle body gasket. Worked fine till now.
I have the same problem with my chevy 1500 truck. i found that a few things can cause this problem. The throttle contral modual at the gas peddle, the pcm or (ecu), and the throttle body. try having these items tested and maybe you will have the luck i didn't. i need to change out the throttle body.
Re: stalling, 'reduced power' light, and OBD code P1125...
These trucks have a drive by wire system,we seen a` lot with a broken ground wire on the rear of the drverside cyl head,this is hard to see just feel and give the wire a tug .If the wire is loose or broken the reduced engine power light will come on.
Re: stalling, 'reduced power' light, and OBD code P1125...
Have the O2 sensor replaced, it's likely mounted on the exhaust manifold. Should run much better. You can likely find the codes by signing up on Autozone.com, enter your vehicle and save it, then look for the codes.
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Possible reasons to get this bogus fault code:
1) The scanner is reading the code incorrectly. The generic scanners may work fine with the standard PowerTrain codes, but manufacturer specific codes may cause them problems.
Try having someone else scan it to see what code they get.
AutoZone and Advance both do it for free.
(2) If it is a legit code, then it is a manufacturer secret. They likely do hold back some info about codes. Most auto manufacturers I would guess are probably not too happy about OBD-II being forced on them, so likely they may have a few secrets they can hold back.
Not sure whether it is a legit code at this point. That needs to be verified.
When I searched the web, I did find a few others who have gotten this code, but none knew what is was
It sounds like it has lost it's base idle setting. These are fly-by-wire which it is computer controlled. Has the battery been disconnected lately? Any codes stored? Could also be dirty throttle valve.
I checked for Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) and Recalls for your vehicle, but I found no TSB's related to your problem and the only Recall that has been issued for your vehicle is for a problem with the headlamps.
I can only offer 2 pieces of advice at this point:
1. If it feels like the engine RPM is not correct, i.e too slow or erratic when you are coming to a stop, I would be taking a hard look at the Idle Air Control Solenoid (IAC) These can fail and never set a code.
2. You may want to have your engine computer scanned with a scanner that can check "Vehicle Specific Codes" There may be codes or pending codes stored in your engine control module that have not yet or cannot turn on the Check Engine light. Some of these types of codes are vehicle specific and most generic OBD code readers can't even see them. I have many times found several codes stored without the Check Engine light being on.
Post a comment to let me know how this turns out, or if you have any related questions.
I know this is not a solution but I too started having this same problem today. Start car, runs normal then all the sudden it feels funny, traction control light blinks on and dash displays service traction control-reduced engine power. This causes my car to sputter like it is going to stall I have to pull over and turn my car off and back on to drive off (only for it to do it within the next 10 minutes). I thought turning TC off would work for now just to drive it, no not successful stil does it : ( I TOOK IT TO AUTO ZONE AND HAD IT SCANNED HAD A CODE FOR GROSS EVAC LEAK AND SOMETHING ABOUT THE THROTTLE PLATE/BODY NOT SURE IF THAT IS RELATED BUT THAT ALL THE INFO I HAVE ON THAT.
Try looking for engine vacuum leak,around the injector seals inlet etc.Is the air box lid and hoses tight and leak free?Could also be fuel pressure problem Try squeezing the fiel return line with the appropriate tool so you dont damage it and see wether the engine idles properly.If idles better more than likely fuel pressure problem.
My name is Juan Heredia and I'm an ASE certified technician. I have seen this code and this driveability issues before, I will need a little more information about your car to tell you exactly what your problem is, Honda has two different types of throttle bodies for this especific vehicle, drive by wire and cable operated, if your vehicle uses the drive by wire type I would highly recommend to replace the throttle body actuator, if it uses the cable operated one it will be necesary to do a little more testing, let me know if this helps