Need to know how to change rear wheel bearing in a 95 suburban

No.
The most you'll need is a big hammer or a air hammer to loosen the bearing from the spindle but just like changing a front bearing

indicates failing or incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings
contrary to popular belief wheel bearings have to have a slight preload adjustment to
a-- keep the oil from leaking out of the bearing seal
b--- compensate for the gyro action of the wheel ( flywheel ) when the plane of the spin is altered ( changing steering direction)
if the bearings are not correctly adjusted the wheel will develop a wobble similar to what a top develops as it slows down roads that have a high crown require a different wheel alignment setting for the camber so a wheel alignment may be in order
check the tie rod joints as well but normally a bad ball joint will cause the wobble in the straight ahead position at speeds approaching 30mph or better

Hi,
If you have a Four-Wheel Drive Suburban, it sounds like it's in 4WD HIGH. Check the switch on the dash and change to AWD or 2WD....do not use the 4WD Low (unless you're stuck in mud).
Td

Its probably the left side, not only because you replaced the right side, but because it changes on right turns.
When you go into a right turn, the bearings on the left side are under more pressure and torque.
The front hub bearing goes bad more often than the axle bearing, so I would expect it to be the left front.

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Hi,

I'm Ben and -- hopefully -- I can provide some meaningful assistance.

Discussion

Replacing the rear wheel bearings on these vans is relatively simple pretty simple. However, the first thing that you must do is satisfy your self that it's the bearing and not something rubbing on a tire or something else back there in the rear.

Follow this steps to diagnose the problem:

1. Jack up the rear of the car
2. shake the wheel side to side and top to bottom.
3. if there is any wobble in it then it is a wheel bearing.
4. However, you cant alway tell by the shake test.
5. You can also go down the road and swerve side to side (being careful of oncoming traffic).
6. Iif you swerve to the right and the noise is loudest on the left side.
7. If you swerve to the left and its louder its on the right side.

How to remove and replace rear wheel bearings.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section of your User Manual.

Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Rear wheel
2. Brake drum or caliper
3. Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
4. Hub and bearing assembly from the rear axle

To install:

Install or connect the following:

1. Hub and bearing assembly. Tighten the bolts to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
2. Wheel speed sensor, if equipped. Tighten the bolt to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
3. Brake drum or caliper
4. Rear wheel

Have you checked the front wheel bearings? I've seen similar problems on several front wheel drive cars. On my first experience, we also started by changing the CV joints only to find it did not solve the problem. We then though it was a transmission problem.... wrong again. Finally checked the front wheel bearings (Both sides) and found the passenger side was making the noise. Bearing replaced (not cheap by the way) but solved the problem.

It's your wheel bearings..It came from the rear? Well, if it did...then this is how you determine what side you need to change..Read carefully.....find a safe and secluded lot....drive staight and turn your steering wheel to the left and right..If you turn to the left and the noise stops then you need to change your Rear driver side bearing same goes for the other just vice versa......Hope this helps...DO not take it to the dealer unless you're made of money... It cost an arm and leg to fix something that you can do in 20-30 min.... Google it!!

It depends. For a regular 1/2 ton and most 3/4 tons no, just remove the caliper and the rotor comes off over the wheel bearing hub. 1 ton suburbans, require more work, you will require a large socket to remove the axle nut, and a slide hammer or 3 jaw puller big enough to pull off the rotor and wheel bearing as an assembly. The rotor on some 3/4 tons and all 1 tons bolt from behind thru the wheel bearing and need to be removed together. The wheel bearing has to be unbolted from the spindle, then the wheel studs have to be punched thru to remove the rotor. The splines on the wheel studs hold the rotor to the wheel bearing. 1 ton will say 3500 on the side, 2500 for 3/4 ton and 1500 for 1/2 tons.

Daewoo rear wheel bearing parts numbers are
94535209 and 94535218....one each per side

Remove two trim panels from just inside back window and just inside rear side door passenger side. They run down from the head liner. Remove seat belt bolt ( TORX HEAD ) also. Remove lower half of trim from just inside rear side door. You should see screws holding weel cover in place. The top under glass just lifts up slightly to remove entire cover. Just a few more screws and you can hinge the top cover of the duct and fan. You will now see the top half of the rear condenser and if you look down beside it you will see the expansion valve. This about as close as you will get to changing the valve though because the freon lines running to the condenser will be stuck so solidly you would have to destroy the lines on either side of the nut to seperate them. You cannot reach the valve without lifting the condenser from its tray and you cannot lift the condenser without removing the lines from it!!! Good luck!!!