Question about 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T
Yesterday my 2008 9-3 2.0T started a noticeable vibration and increased noise throughout the RPM range and seems to have lost some degree of acceleration although not much and I may be imagining it due to the vibration. It doesn't feel so rough as a misfiring cylider - I've had that before and this is not the same feel, but it is noticeably different through the entire RPM range from the smoothness I felt before. Even after warming the engine, it is idling higher (about 900 RPM) than normal (was ~730-750 prior) and the turbo boost seems to be engaged about 20-25% even at standing idle. There are no error indicators or warning lights of any kind on the dash, and the idle is steady at 900 it does not jump around or dip at all. I have driven it 200 miles through multiple stops/starts and these symptoms are consistent. Anyone have any ideas?
The only thing I can this is a vacuum leak, either a hose or egr valve.
I hope this helps!
Posted on Nov 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like you have a short somewhere in your electrical system going to your lights. I would check for and wires being accidentally cut or even perhaps melted through. If you have no luck there, you may end up having to take the vehicle to a shop that specializes in electrical troubleshooting. I'd lay odds on a short in the wiring going to the headlights, though. Hope this helps and have a great day!
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.
Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too
Possible other causes include:
loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);
mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)
obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;
improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;
possible problem with MAF.
Hope this helps
Posted on May 30, 2009
Your right on. Its most likely the altenator. Chances are the belt is sliping because the pully bearing is bad. Of course this all means that you are running off the battery and it is getting low. You will get stuck when you can least afford to. You must remove the altenator and replace. Oh one last thing it could very well be your water pump pully bearing. So remove fan belt and spin with your hand, if you feel resistance thats it, so remove fan belt and check before you start replacing components. Good luck
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
I have a Saab95, recently, it won't start. I cleaned my battery connection (positive). It still won't work as it was (it eventually start, but I have to keep the key on for a while). The crank is very weak at beginning, the starter gradually kicked in. I let the car run few minutes, shut down engine, restart, the starter kicked in right away.
Does this indicate the car need new starter?
Thank you very much
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
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