Wheel shakes with balanced tires - 1995 Toyota Corolla

First change the wheel/tire with the spare or another wheel tire to check for any change in shake.If the shake is in the seat it is usually in the rear,if it's in the steering wheel,then the front.
If the wheels are balanced all bushing could be loose and it will still be a smooth "no shake" ride.
Don't forget if brake discs and brake drums are out of balance no amount of tire balancing will correct a shake.
Also there is static and dynamic wheel balancing machines.You always want a motorized "dynamic" wheel balance done.

Try rotating both front wheels to the back one at a time. If a tire has a bad belt; it may balanced but balancing does not eliminate a soft spot on the tire tread. By moving the tires to the back and road testing it after each side is done, you may be able to find the bad tire.

You have a lot of moving parts. A brake rotor could be out of balance, you can have a worn CV joint shaft, a hub bearing could be worn, driveshafts and U-joints can shake.

If you do find one wheel as a problem, have the tire dismounted and the wheel spun on the machine. You may have a bent rim and the tire may be good. Since the balance would help compensate for the vibration, it can mask the flattened spot on the rim. The tire will act like a shock absorber but ultimately the rim is not turning like it is round once weight is on it.

I would be interested in what you found.

Sound like out of balance tire or a separated tire or bearing but, the two most common causes are the ones. I suggest visit some tire shop and would like to have the tires inspected and balanced.

Some customers may comment on shaking/vibration in the steering wheel, floor or seat while driving at highway speeds (typically between 60-72 mph (96-115 km/h)) on smooth roads.

These specific vehicles may be sensitive to various rotating mass assemblies, especially if they are considered to be out-of-balance.

In order to correct this:
1. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and correct as necessary.
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread

2. Set the tire pressure to 30 psi (205 kpa) COLD.

3. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration still exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic balancer. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible.

Important: Some GM dealers may have a Hunter GSP9700 Road Force Balancer. This will simplify Step 5 by not requiring dial indicators. If a Hunter GSP9700 machine is available, it may also be used to measure the radial force of the tire/wheel assembly. A guideline here is 18 lbs or less.

4. While on the balancer, measure wheel runout. If radial or lateral runout exceeds .020 in (0.50 mm) for aluminum wheels (.030 in (0.76 mm) for steel wheels), replace the wheel.

5. After confirming wheel balance and wheel runout, if any changes were made, road test the vehicle again.

6. If the smooth road shake/vibration still exists:
Important: The completed worksheet must be attached to the hard copy of the repair order.

Record Radial Force Variation readings if you have access to Hunter GSP9700 Wheel Balance equipment. Use the worksheet shown in this bulletin to record the readings.

If one or more of the tires have RFV readings in excess of 18 lbs, match mount the tires to get below 18 lbs. Readings of 12 lbs. or less are preferable for critical customer concerns.

If the RFV can not be reduced to an acceptable level, replace the affected tire with one obtained locally.

The screened tire program is no longer in effect for Bridgestone/Firestone, Goodyear and Michelin. Low speed screened tires are available from Continental General only, and only for the Buick LeSabre.

Road test the vehicle to ensure the shake/vibration has been resolved.

7. Replace both lower control arms on vehicles built prior to the VIN breakpoints shown. The new lower control arms may provide an incremental improvement to the vehicle ride. Customers who have become "tuned in" to the shake condition may still feel some shake in the vehicle after the new lower control arms are installed.
Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement, (refer to the Parts Information table below for SI document ID numbers).

Important: THE CONTROL ARMS SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED ON VEHICLES IF, AFTER THE TIRE AND WHEEL DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIRS HAVE BEEN PERFORMED, THE VIBRATION CONDITION STILL EXISTS.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice weekend.

If the steering wheel starts to shake between 55-65 MPH then you need to balance the wheels. If it shakes when you press the brakes, your brake rotors are warped and need to be cut or replaced. If the steering wheel shakes at low speeds then it's possible one of your rims is bent or one of your tires is out of round. Leaving a car parked for a long time in snowy and icy roads will damage your tires, causing them to warp. Depending on which situation is causing your steering wheel to shake, have it looked at.

More than likely, you have warped brake rotors. If thats not it, a tire has a belt broken and needs to be replaced.

If the shake changed by changing tires,you may be close to the fix.Sure sounds like a wheel or tire or rotor is out of balance.I would have all of the wheel/tires balanced on a NAME BRAND freshly calibrated dynamic motorized wheel balancer.

did you retourque your wheels?

lol Make sure you wash the inside of your rims after you go playing in the mud. a small amount of dried mud will make your wheel shake at a high speed. It will unbalance your wheel.

there are a few things that are more likely than others .. first tire balance .. if a tire loses a balancing weight or gets its rim dented or if the tire is simply worn .. then you need to rebalance the wheels .. this should be done every year or so anyhow .. a broken cord or belt in a tire will also show up when they try to balance as will a bent rim .. this will tend to shake the car above 50 mph .. thats also not a safe condition since the tire could fail unexpectedly .. you might observe a tires tread wiggling when observed moving from another car or on a rack when you spin the tire .... tires are most likely the trouble but a worn out CV joint will also shake at certain speeds .. usually this shows up at low speeds or as excessive slack in the drive system .. warped rotors are a frequent source of vibration . but usually the problem is most noticable as brakes are applied .. the best bet is to have the tires balanced and inspected .. that will give you lots of information .. one more thing you dont see as much anymore is wheel vibration at higher speeds caused by worn ball joints or tie rod ends .. the wheels will actually oscillate above a critical speed . you will often see cupping on the front tire treads if this happens .. that cupping problem can also be observed when the tires are balanced .. the tie rod ends can be checked with the wheel off the ground .. shake the tire left to right .. excessive slack would mean worn tie rod ends ...

If only happening at a particular speed, the tires & wheels need to be balanced. If shaking were to occur at other speeds, suspension components, alignment, loose lug nuts, and more can cause the shaking . But at only one speed, and then disappears as you lower or raise that speed is caused by out of balance wheels\tires. Be sure to have them high speed spun balanced as "static" or bubble balancing only balances in one plain. Dynamic balance covers across the tread as well as the running "plane" or front and back of the wheel tire combo. Thanks for your question and be sure to rate this soultion for us. Good luck, Papa