1990 Isuzu Truck 2.6 5-Speed , Cranks but no fire to the plugs, new cap. rotor Turn key to ignition on and no check engine light, no heat/ac , no flashers. HELP!

okay, so right now when you turn the key your starter is giving you cranking revolution of the engine and it wont start, we need to check for ignition spark first,use rubber gloves and take the ignition coil wire from the center of the distributor cap off and hold it by the top of the cap contact while some cranks the engine if it sparks that's good/if not your coil is bad//if good,now take of a spark plug wire and use rubber gloves to hold it next to the engine for ground or hold a screw diver on the engine or exhaust manifold and hold the wire tip on it while someone cranks the engine if it sparks that's good your distributor cap and rotor are good // if not change the cap and rotor /// if all working next take out a spark plug and check the gap between the center firing pin ,and the electrode at the base if the gap is ok good if not regap or replace the spark plugs,now if all are good and still the engine only cranks but doesn't run take fuel injection cleaner or gas and poor/spray it into the throttle body if it turns over and dies you have a fuel delivery issue/and possible blown fuses for /fuel pump/idle air control valve /P C M / please check all of this and get back to me write down what you've done and I'll take you further o.k. thanks Stephen

Dodge Dakota Crank No Start Fix - YouTube

? 8:10
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-rfAd0YLg0
Jun 29, 2014 - Uploaded by AJ Pierce
In this video, I will show you how I fixed my 1992 Dodge Dakotanot starting. ... Engine cranks but won't start - Duration: 18:30. jimthecarguy ...

Inspect Fuses if Engine Cranks But Does Not Start : Dodge ...

repairpal.com > Problems > Dodge > Dakota

Engine Will Not Start Due to Blown Door Lock Fuse on Dodge Dakota ... cap and rotor, wires, plugs, coil, fuel pump assy, coil pickup sensor, crank position sensor and have new ECM on the way, Cranks but won't fire. ... 1990 Dodge Dakota.

Dakota won't Start - Discussion on Topix

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Jan 22, 2009 - have a 1993 dodge dakota sport that wont start. when you turn the key on there is no power to the fuel pump and does not fire. any ideas ... I just bought a1990 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4 5-Speed, there is only one problem, it only .... I went to move it the other day, it would turn over, but had no spark or gas.

Dodge Dakota Questions - PROBLEM STARTING - CarGurus

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the timing is 180 degrees out so ignore where no 1 lead should be and rewire the HT leads to the new position for no1 cylinder. The crank timing mark should be on 10 degrees advanced. Engines are timed off the crank position so forget the cam position.
Or you can start again. Remove no 1 plug and turn the engine over until you feel compression under your finger over the plug hole. Set the timing on the crank to 10 degrees before tdc. Position the distributor so that the point of the star is directly opposite the exciter coil in the distributor. The rotor button should now be facing no 1 cylinder plug lead adjust the HT leads so that they will fire in the 1342 firing order. Start the engine and with a timing light attached to no 1 plug lead adjust the timing mark to specifications by turning the body of the distributor.

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

Check your Crankshaft position sensor

check fuel pump relay under hood if its good check fuel pump if pump is good change fuel filter still no start then test for fire to plugs no fire replace cap rotor got fire to plugs check for broken timeing belt good luck

Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributor distribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.

There may be no injector pulse if the computor does not see a RPM signal.
There will be no spark if the ignition module does not see a dist pulse from the dist pickup.......a RPM signal.
Because you do not have both ......I would suggest to check/change the dist pick up.
Follow the wires from the ignition module inside the dist to the pickup which is also inside the dist.
If it is just a bad dist pickup....keep all your old parts as good spares.
Also...is the dist turning? to provide a RPM signal?
You will have to remove the dist to change the pick-up.....mark your timing locations......"rotor position" and "dist body location"before removal.
A quick test before installing the "repaired dist" .....plug it in the the truck wiring and turn on the key....DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE OR YOU WILL LOSE YOUR DIST ROTOR CORRECT POSITION......as you spin the dist by hand .....the injectors should spray.

How do you know it's getting fuel and spark? do you know if the fuel is good? and not watery?
are you getting any check engine light?