Carbeurator ive posed diffrent questions to my problem allready but ive troubleshot the vehicle and come up with a diffrent problem. here goes. I thought my fuel pump wasnt working cause my truck would die when iwas driving it but every time when i looked at the float bowl. It was empty. Im getting pressure because i unhooked the main gas line to the carb and gas shoots out of the main line when i unhook it, but when i hook it back up it wont enter the carb for some reason. Im thinking it could be a sticky ball but ive played with that ball that the main gas line runs into, if i took out that ball would it be allright since my needle valve hooked to the float body in the carb shuts off the gas or will it cause flooding. Im going to try it and see what happens. Ive ordered books and i have a vacuum diagram for it its fed emissions 1980 2.2 liter front wheel drive. Its like the carb wont except gas because pressure in it is keeping gas out thats why im going to try to take that ball out. If anyone has any sharp ideas or diagrams they want to send me thats cool. I dont know how to use a computer very well, its my friends. I wont forget to add some points to someone if theyll explain how i do it. Ive tried to help others here before but i dont know if they got my message or not. My friends e mail is [email protected]

SOURCE: Front drive, 4 Wheel drive won't engage

Check the switch on the transfercase remove the vacume lines if there is oil in them the switch has to be replaced and the lines should be cleaned out you should also check under the battery tray to make sure the boot is not ripped that controls the leaver to engage the front axel

SOURCE: 4 wheel drive problem with jeep wagoneer 1983

I don't know about the years Quadratrack was from 1976 to 1979 in CJ7's i'm not sure about wagoneer's i have a bunch of these units and i have rebuilt them as well. the vacuum lines are esential. there should be a vacuum control knob in the glove box. those lines go to a vacuum type accuator on the top of the transfer case, it might be a good idea to use new vacuum line here. a feed line comes off the intake manifold to supply vacuum to this system. all those lines need to work correctly for that switch. as for the handle on the floor board thats the high low switch on the reduction unit on the transfer case. this gives you 4 low . if it's not hooked up you only have 4 hi. some of these units came only with 4-hi. if you need more info you can drop me an e-mail [email protected] i would be glad to help.

SOURCE: 1995 Chevy Diesel, Randomly dies

Sounds like you have a problem with the crank sensor.They can have an intermitant fault.like an open curcuit Try changing the sensor.good luck hope that was helpfull.

SOURCE: rear end humming noise

check the play in the pinion gear bearing on the rear end i think! you will find the yoke ie lose and also the bearing has excessive play and needs ro be changed

SOURCE: No Fuel??? Not starting.

You have fuel flow but the question now is are the injectors pulsing. Given the year of the truck my gut says your ECU, Engine Control Unit, has failed. Mitsubishi had issues with the capacitors in their early 90's cars, trucks SUVs. I have been thru this with two monteros and one 3000GT, very common. To check your injectors rent a set of NOID lites from Autozone our such. Remove an injector plug and itstall a noid light. Turn the engine over, if no flash, no pulse. Remove the ECU and carefully open it up. Look for the capacitors, there should be 3, look under the capacitors on the board; if there is a grease like substance, often time it has a green hew to it, then the capacitor(s) have failed. It may be possible to replace the capacitors or simply purchase a rebuilt ECU. Be ceratin the MD number matches on the new unit.
Please let me know your results and if this had assisted you.
Thanks, Tom

Testimonial: "Thanks! I will try your ideas and get back to you shortly!!!"