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Re: cannt remove cyclinder head
Before prying, get a big rubber mallet and smack the **** out of it. even use a wooden block and hit that before trying to pry it. I have done this before and caused a lot of very expensive problems. This is a Rooky mistake.
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Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened. Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.
Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal
Head bolt socket (if needed)
Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way. Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture. Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.
Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal
Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain. Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths. Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process
The following steps are necessary if your car has A/C and if you are removing the passenger side valve cover, if you do not need to remove the passenger side valve cover, skip them.
Remove the A/C compressor belt and the compressor from the mounting bracket located on the passenger side of the engine. Do not remove the lines from the compressor.
Place the compressor with the lines attached on the passenger side front shock tower and secure.
Remove the compressor bracket.
Remove the air cleaner-to-throttle body hose.
Label and remove all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Remove the attaching bolts for the valve cover(s).
Remove the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s). If necessary, lightly tap the valve cover with a soft hammer to aid in removal.
Thoroughly clean the valve cover(s) and cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Install the valve cover(s) on the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
Tighten the valve cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
Install all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Install the A/C bracket (if removed).
Install the A/C compressor and belt (if removed).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder, and 2.9L 6-Cylinder Engines
The 2.3L and 2.4L 5-cylinder, and 2.9L 6-cylinder engines have a two-piece cylinder head, the upper half and the lower half. The upper half is basically the same as a valve cover, except that it incorporates the bearing caps for the camshafts into the underside.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the spark plug access cover.
Label and remove the ignition coils and vent hoses or the distributor cap and wires if equipped.
Check the cam alignment before removing the cylinder head.
Remove the bolts attaching the upper cylinder head.
Remove the upper cylinder head, lightly tap with a soft hammer if necessary.
Thoroughly clean the upper and lower cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Apply liquid sealing compound to the upper cylinder head mating surface.
WARNING Use a roller or your finger to spread sealant, do not use an excessive amount of sealant, or the oil passages could become clogged.
Place the upper cylinder head onto the lower cylinder head.
Check the cam alignment before tightening the cylinder head.
Install Volvo tool number 5454 or equivalent to the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the nut on the tools to seat the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the upper cylinder head bolts, beginning from the center out to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
Install the ignition coils and hoses or the distributor cap and wires.
Install the spark plug access cover.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the vehicle and check for leaks.
Fig. 2: Remove the clamp and detach the vent hose
Fig. 3: Remove the spark plug cover and the plug wires or ignition coils to access the retaining bolts
Fig. 4: Remove the retaining bolts
Fig. 5: A light tap with a soft-faced hammer is usually required to loosen the valve cover
Fig. 6: Carefully lift the upper cylinder head up and off the lower section. Note the integral camshaft bearing caps in the casting
The covers come off the steering collum and the switch is heald to the collum with two #4torx headed bolts ( torx socket not a key ) unplug the electrical connector and plug in the new one It'll come with new bolts. sometimes they have #3 torx and you'll just have to cut the heads off and install the new bolts after the switch is out of the way. put the lock cyclinder back in. The lock cyclinder comes out of the old one as the cover is lifted up theres a pin to push down with the key in the run position, and the tumber will pull out and the cover can be removed as you put it back to gether the cullum can be all the way to gether and put the lock and key in last, then turn it to start then off and your done.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION STARTER MOTOR Removal & Installation (2.0L)
CAUTION:When battery is disconnected, vehicle computer and memory systems may lose memory data. Driveability problems may exist until computer systems have completed a relearn cycle. See COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in GENERAL INFORMATION before disconnecting battery. Before testing starter, ensure transmission is in Park or Neutral.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner. Remove upper starter mounting bolts. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect starter solenoid wire connections. Remove starter motor lower mounting bolt. Remove starter motor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure negative battery cable is installed with starter mounting bolt. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal & Installation (2.5L)
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner bracket. Disconnect starter solenoid wire connections. Remove starter support bracket. On manual transmission equipped models, remove shift cable bracket and disconnect cable. On all models, remove fuel supply line from support bracket. Remove starter bolts. Remove starter. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification.
yes just undo all the rocker cover bolts remove the rocker and make sure that you remove all the old gasket material on the rocker cover and the cylinder head then get some gasket tack(a spray adheasive) put gasket in place and make sure you only tighten them hand tight with a nut driver.start with the inside nuts and work your way to the outside