It runs for about 2 seconds smoothly the idles way down and dies. have tried fuel pump regulator and filter
It sounds like you have already spent more money than it would cost to have the problem properly diagnosed.
It sounds like you are describing the symptoms of a faulty airflow meter.
However, 1989 Toyota Pickup used both carbureted and fuel injected engines. Both engines were used with regular automatic transmission, electronic automatic transmission and manual transmission. The engine control diagrams are different for each of these possible configurations.
The place I would start would be to gather any computer fault codes FIRST before wasting any more money randomly replacing parts.
SOURCE: 1983 Mazda RX7 lacks power rough or no idle
Sounds like carb idle air or fuel jets are clogged.. Test pressure with a gauge to be sure. Float level and drop needs to be exact.. Operation of the whole carb relies on this. Probably why you are not getting any change in your air/fuel adjustments.
SOURCE: 1985 toyota 4x4 22re missing and rough idle
Have you pulled out the spark plugs to see if there are any tell tale signs on them.They are a good indicator of many problems that occur and can save a lot of time isolating the problem.They should all be the same colour.Is the air box and lid properly secured with no leaks or splits in the intake tube.Have you put injector cleaner in the fuel tank to clear up any possible dirty injectors.Therse a few things your problem could be including engine vacuum leak which you can find by lightly spraying carburettor cleaner around suspect places such as inlet manifold and around injector seals.
SOURCE: 99 olds alero 2.4
I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.
SOURCE: olds alero 2.4 idle fuel pressure
most likely idle air control sensor or low engine coolant I know sounds funny but IAC uses coolant to regulate idle. Idle air control valve or throttle body positioning sensor.
SOURCE: 1992 gmc chevy 350 wont idle when warm
This could be a number of things but i think that your problem sounds like a vacuum leak or an EGR problem. Try listening for leaks and try un-plugging the EGR solenoid valve one time.
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