I want to install two GFCI receptacles in an outside box. One is the Cooper with the on/off switch and the other a Eagle GFCI (no on/off) can/should this be done? and if so, how? We have wired it several different way's but each time we turn the switch on the Cooper to on, it trips the 15 AMP breaker.

This is what I think is going on.
Pull the bathroom light and verify that there is only one wire going to it. I'm betting that it only has one 3cond and that it's the second one in your j-box.
Connect the 3cond from the circuit breaker to the GFI.
Pull a single black wire from the GFI over to the switch. The black in the 3cond to the light goes on the other side of the switch. White from the light goes to white on the GFI.
What the electrician did is power the light from the receptacle box.
I'd like to know if this corrects the problem and everything works.

Copy following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Cooper-GFCI-wiring-5-600.jpg
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If you meant arch fault with ground fault then no, the two types interfere with each other and trip the breaker as one senses an arch and the other grounding.
If you meant ground fault breaker with a GFCI. receptacle, you only need one of the two, either GFCI. breaker or receptacle.

and for circuits, you can put up to 12 devices (i.e receptacle, light)assuming they consume 1 amp each. Anything over 12 amps or 80% of the rating on the breaker, it will trip/reset.
Or if your talking about wires on a breaker then no more than 2 wires recommended. Try adding a junction box outside the panel if your trying to add other branch circuits or tap off of a receptacle.

1) In this situation we need to test the wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test, and a diagram would be guessing which wire color does what.

2) FYI: non-GFCI receptacle located in bathroom is not code, and device will have to be replaced when property is sold. The reason for GFCI is the likelihood of you holding defective electrical gizmo from China in one hand while putting other hand in running water. Or electrical gizmo falling into bathtub occupied by wife with large life insurance policy.
If you have kids using that bathroom, I want you to avoid using non-GFCI device.

3) Your new device has color-coded screws: Dark, brass, and silver.
These colors tell electrician how to wire the device.

4) Let's test to see which wire connects to which screw:
Separate wires.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester from hardware store.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on device.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and will complete circuit to receptacle.
If box does not have a Neutral wire, the circuit to receptacle can be completed using ground wire on silver screw, but I am not recommending that.
Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). Load wire connects to brass screw, and will complete circuit to Load.

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Leviton and Lutron both make GFCI switch-outlet combo.
Buy at Home Center or on-line
Leviton 7299
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combination/dp/B000UJADW6

It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

Add a comment at any point.
Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
White Neutral wire from breaker box connects to silver-colored screw
Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
a) Pilot light turns on. This circuit is powered by black Hot wire, and circuit is complete with white Neutral.
b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

The GFCI:
Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
Neutral from breaker connects to silver-colored screw that is opposite Line screw.
If other switches and plugs are going to be protected by GFCI, they connect to brass Load screw and to silver screw that is opposite Load screw


Option A) You want pilot-light-switch to turn on GFCI receptacle.
a) Wire pilot-light-switch as described above
b) Black wire from GFCI line-screw connects to brass screw on pilot-light-switch.
c) White wire from GFCI silver-screw-opposite-line-screw connects to any white Neutral.

Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Load screw on GFCI
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw

Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Line screw on GFCI or any Hot wire
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw or to any Neutral wire

If I understand correctly, you are replacing a single switch that has two wires.
You want to install a switch/plug-gfci similar to one shown below.

You are working on wires inside a box:
To wire this kind of device you need at least 2 cables entering the box.
Each cable has a black-white-ground wire.
Cable 1) One cable comes from breaker box. This is the Hot cable
Hot cable has black-hot-from-breaker & white-neutral-from-breaker

Cable 2) One cable goes to the Load (light, fan motor). This wire is controlled by the switch. This is the Load cable
Load cable has black-to-load & white-to-load.



Leviton combo GFCI and Switch
There are 2 screws on either side of switch
There are 2 screws to either side of plug
There are two wires on back of device

2 screws on either side of switch: there is a brass-colored screw and silver-colored screw.
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to brass colored screw on side of switch
White-neutral-from-breaker connects to silver colored screw on side of switch

2 black wires on back of device
Black-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as brass-colored screws
White-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as silver-colored screws

2 screws on either side of plug
These screws are used when your box is a 'junction' box that feeds wires forward to another box ... for example you have 4 receptacles in a room, the cable enters first box and then goes to the next box and to the next box. Suppose your switch was one of the boxes. Wire arrives from a previous box (this is the Hot cable, every box has 1 Hot cable). Your switch box sends one cable to the Load (light, fan etc), but it also sends another cable to the next box which has a receptacle or another switch.
If your box has a third cable that feeds forward to other boxes, then the screws on either side of plug are used. The black-to-next-box goes to brass screw. The white-to-next-box connects to silver screw.
And all further boxes and devices are protected by the GFCI device.

If you need more information, please answer back and I will help.

recheck the wiring in receptacle loose wire --broken wire / connection or improper wiring

You only have two wires, because it is wired for a switch leg. You only have the incoming hot and outgoing hot to the light. You need a neutral and grounding conductors also. If you're putting this in a bathroom, it should be a GFCI receptacle. You will have to add another wire, or just add another box in the wall.

Hi ,., the two screws on the one side of the combo are for the white , neutral wires, they should be interconnected with a small link. The screw at the bottom of the switch connect the black power wire, then jumper a wire between the other two screws on that side and the switch will be controlling the receptacle.

Those GFCI's will stop functioning (as they are supposed too) if the electronics is bad. Nearby lightning strikes and power surges can knock out the electronics. Some GFCI's come from the factory bad out of the box. Also if wired incorrectly (make sure the incoming 120 volt wires are connected to the LINE side of the receptacle) The only other thing to check is if there is power to the GFCI. Test for 120 volts at the receptacle box. (testing from hot to neutral will rule out a bad neutral connection). Should read 120 volts. Otherwise, you'll have to replace the outlet :-(