Won't powerup Tested the fuses by using a continuity test, they all seem to look okay. The amp is drawing power as I have it plugged into a line conditioner that shows current usage. The active light doesn't go on at all. Is there any other test/diagnostic I can do prior to sending it in for repair.

Sounds as though the battery is no good,
unless you know otherwise & also had it tested
Charging a battery doesn't address it's internal
condition
You have battery cables that corrode inside & can be
voltage drop tested
You have the starter & solenoid,ignition sw & such, to name
a few,lots of possible causes & things to check

please follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Line Fuse


Every microwave oven has a line fuse. This fuse is designed to blow if too much current is drawn through the microwave circuitry. The fuse can be replaced, but the underlying issue should still be investigated and resolved. Otherwise the new fuse will blow also.
Main Control Board


If the microwave is not working the main control board may be defective. This is not common. When a microwave stops working the problem is usually the line fuse or within the high voltage circuit; either the high voltage capacitor, diode, transformer or magnetron.


Thermal Fuse


If the microwave is not working the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
Thermoprotector


If the microwave is not working the thermoprotector may have tripped. This is a safety device to prevent the microwave from overheating. It can be tested for continuity to see if it's blown.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.

Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.



Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.



Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.



Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.



Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.



Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.



Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

seethis causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this time
Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the hom
Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.
If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.
If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Need to check your battery connections and clean them. Or your battery is no good

Could be a ground problem; I send you a drain test to check it, you will need a digital volt and ohm meter to perform a battery draw test.

WARNING: Do not attempt this test on a lead-acid battery that has recently been recharged. Explosive gases may cause personal injury. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to the meter, do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A.

NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes . Current drains can be tested with the following procedure:

NOTE:
Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
Use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable.

Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading will fall to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all the fuses, it may be due to the generator.

To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line digital ammeter must be used. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.

When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its fuel trim. The vehicle may need to be driven to relearn the strategy.

Make sure the junction box(es)/fuse panel(s) is accessible without turning on interior or underhood lights. Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and activate the vehicle systems.
Allow the vehicle to sit with the key OFF for at least 40 minutes to allow modules to time out/power down.

Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.

NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated. Connect the tester between the negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

NOTE:
If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.
Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.

Remove the jumper wire. If the draw is found to be excessive, remove fuses from the central junction box one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, etc.

If the current draw is still excessive, remove the fuses from the battery junction box (BJB) one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you have finished testing. To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed. After removal of all of the fuses, install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse until each circuit has been tested. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located.

Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the junction boxes. This could find in the Service Manual or Haynes books. If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Also disconnect the generator electrical connections if the draw can not be located. The generator may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

wire shorting somewhere