How to tell if lamp is dead? Lamp strikes 5, Red LED flashes once over and over. All whirs and whines as normal. Removed bulb housing, one side half-caked with dust, vacuumed it. Removed bulb, looks fine (no bulges or black spots). Depressed door switch and fired up, light wheel spinning. Not toooo many hours on the bulb (I'd estimate less than 3000) but this is the first time its been cleaned which I now realize I should have been doing a LOT more often. Little square glass lens on housing was loose due to significant aging of the plastic frame below it, so I shimmed it and it's now tight again. Put everything back, one of the two plastic keeper screw posts broke. Fire it up, Red LED same as before.

Panasonic DLP TV Bulbs

Make sure its an original Osram or Philips bulb inside the housing. If its a cheap lamp it will act this way. If it is an original lamp, then you may have a power supply issue. It shouldn't affect your TV but you may want to try resetting the lamp timer by following the instructions that came with the lamp.

TY-LA1001 Timer reset

While pressing the VOL- button on the projection display, hold down the number 0 button on the remote control at the same time for more than 5 seconds.

All three LED lights flashes,u hear alot of clicking sounds too?Yes,ur tv the Ballast board is dead too.This Ballast board job is only to ignite the tv projection lamp only.Replace the Ballast board,should solve this problems.

The "LAMP" LED light indication still light up,after all the other LED lights indications turn off?The tv projection lamp is dead.Require a new tv projection lamp.

You may have purchased an aftermarket generic lamp. The chances that the lamp is defect is about 20% with the counterfeit products....Read here for a better explanation:

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/ask-proxima/sp-lamp-017/ask-proxima-sp-lamp-017-lamp-replacement-guide.php

I also suggest buying the original lamp as recommended by the above link. You may find yourself troubleshooting further for no reason simply by buying an aftermarket replacement.

be sure and reset the lamp hours. Flash the software if you can. These are also notorious for the ballast cable on the inside of the lamp housing backing out when a lamp is removed or replaced. If you have the cover off push the cables back into place and hold them there as you install the lamp. Also look directely at your lamp in the center and move it side to side and up and down. If there are any cracks or frosty looking spots or bubbles in the mirror of the lamp that are visible, then the lamp is probably shot. If all this fails, most likely it is the power supply, or the lamp door has gotten mishapen from heat and the actuator on the lamp door isn't making full contact with the safety swith.

if you don't hear a high-pitched whir, the colorwheel is shot and needs replacing. if you do, one of the fans might not be working and the heat shuts it off so as not to cause damage.

Listen closely. The tv should make a high pitch whine as it turns on. If it does wait and see if it tries this a few times. If yes then check the bulb, I have seen cases where the lamp shoves the power connector back into the set. If the tv starts with a grown or heavy vibration noise, then your color wheel may have broken and needs replaced.

Hello toma_leonard,

First check your lamp to make sure it is seated properly in the socket.
Then check all of your interlocks (see your manual for locations), these are usually located on any hatches or doors that allow access to the lamp and or fan area. Once you check your interlocks make sure the filter and fan area is clear of dust, (some projectors have air flow sensors), and the recheck the interlocks. Once this is done , If the interlocks are not broken, or the lamp fuse blown, the projector should be working. If not it is the lamp that needs changing.

I know this may be expensive, however these lamps do go bad, as much as we wish they would not.

If you still feel it is not the lamp, have a technician check the voltage levels to the lamp and the levels of the control board circuitry.

I hope this helps,

Thank you,

Shuttle83

I fixed my TV. As I said, the TV would come on and work normally for about 1 minute. Then, it would turn off and the red power LED would blink continuously with the fan running, indefinitely. One more thing I did not mention previously is that the LAMP led on the front panel would blink once every 4 to 5 seconds.

After reading many different blogs, I went for the cheap fix first. I purchased the Ballast repair kit, Panasonic P/N LSUC0022. $21. It required opening up the ballast unit and replacing some components on the PCB. I noticed that some of the values of the components were different than the original ones. Unfortunately, the symptoms after this repair were the same. Oh well - no harm done. Perhaps improved it for the long run.

Next thing to try was the bulb. A costly thing to try, but an extra buld won't go to waste if I get the TV working.

Much to my surprise, this did the trick. Works fine now. The bulb had 1600 hours on it.

By the way, I went the less expensive route for the bulb. I purchased the bulb only - not the bulb with the enclosure. It was very easy to do, and much less expensive. I also purchased a Philips brand bulb, which is supposed to be much better than the original. If you decide to go the "bulb only" route, I highly recommed getting it here http://www.discount-merchant.com/Panasonic-TY-LA1500-Replacement-Lamp-bare-bulb-p/panasonic_ty-la1500_lamp_1.htm&Click=1683. This buld includes the wires and connectors, and requires only a screwdriver. This company also offers a Philips bulb with the entire enclosure. Don't get a bulb only that requires cutting wires and soldering!

I did eventually get a service manual. The troubleshooting chart for the LED blink pattern I had indicated the following:

"Wait until the lamp has cooled off. Confirm that the Thermal Fuse Unit is not open. Still NG, replace the Lamp. Still NG, replace the Ballast C.B.A. Still NG, replace the Main C.B.A."

Thanks to the person who responded! Your kindness inspired me to respond back with my results....

this can sometimes indicate either an overheating issue, a lamp service life problem, or that the cover to the lamp housing has not been secured properly.