My model 822 wont pump and it sounds like th air is comeing out of the reciever when you do try to pump it

you said you tried applying direct voltage to the pump? proceed to remove the fuel tank and check the harness inside for continuity, both wires going to the pump itself. If wires prove to be ok , then proceed to replace pump .

You said you jumped the wires for the pump? Was that at the pump relay?
If you have a voltmeter or test light, keep the jumper wire in place and check for voltage at the fuel tank connector. The pump wire will be gray. With relay out and jumpered there, you should have battery voltage at the fuel tank connector. The key doesn't even have to be on, cause the relay has voltage to it at all times. If you jumpered it right (terminals 87 and 30 on the relay), and no voltage at the tank connector, you have a broken fuel wire somewhere between the relay and the fuel tank.
If you do have voltage at the tank, but the pump still won't work, only two possibilities, a bad pump or the ground for the pump is lost. Check the pump ground first.

Recommend an eBay or Google search or contact Daisy directly here:

There is air in th sistem. Try to use a easy starter spray can into air suply. Remuve th air filter first. That will start th engine and keeped runing untill all the air in th fuel lines is out of th sistem. Or it should have a litle finger pump u can find in th chainsw

It is air coming out of th defroster? On th windsheld? Th switch that control d vents, is digital or manual? It could be disconected from th vents inside th dash not leting th air come trought. Th blower in th pasenger side under glovebox work?

if its a STICK-SHIFT, it wont hav a dip-stick,u need to raise up th car,nice & LEVELED, you will see a big-nut-on the side of th TRANS BUT MORE to the top of trany probably near the stick-shift u need to buy a hand-pump from any AUTO-PARTS-STORE, when u find the NUT, re-move it,and theres A HOLE,U need to pump th TRANS-GEAR-OIL,in through th HOLE,start pumping in the HOLE, until it starts coming out of the HOLE,when it STOPS coming--out,u are finish,also u are @ the full LEVEL--MARK... GOOD-LUCK!!!!!!

Yes, one thing to try: With the hose attached, place your hand over the suction opening at the pick-up end of the hose. Then pull the trigger. The pump is suction driven, and if there is air in the water line in the hose, that is known to allow th hose to prime in about 10 to 15 seconds.

Try the SAP - same thing happened to me and had to cycle through the audio tracks to get audio back on for that one channel. Good Luck!!!

Start with the receiver. If your speaker connections are done and you have good sound coming from the speakers, connect your components (xbox, dvd player, cable box, etc) to the appropriate connection type on the back of the receiver (HDMI, Component, etc for video; Optical, Coaxial, or analog for audio). Next, find the "Monitor Out" connection and hook that to an input on your television. The receiver should take care of the rest in the setup menu. To program your receiver i suggest downloading the user manual (search google for the make and model number of your reciever you should be able to find one available).
Things to remember.. your reciever may not "up-convert" video signals, which means if you hook Component into your reciever from, say, a dvd player and your Monitor Out is HDMI to the TV, your receiver might not switch the connection for you. If you end up with good audio but no video on an input, this is why. Try running that same video type (Composite, Component, HDMI, etc) to the TV from a seperate Monitor Out.
Your subwoofer, which I am assuming is a "Powered" type that plugs into a receptacle as well, plugs into the back of the reciever on the "Subwoofer Pre-Out" connection. If it is "Passive", which is unlikely, let me know.
The rest is programming, which is usually done in the setup menu or main menu for your receiver. Again, I recommend downloading the manual from a good website.

Well I checked and the pilot would light and then go off right away and repeat.I jumped the 24v terminal to the pv pilot valve terminal on the ignition module and the main burner lit up. I then disconnected the spark igniter and the burner shut off and it tried ti relight producing hi energy sparks from the ignition module. So I ordered the module from american hvac parts online and replaced it. I recieved an updated module and had to hook up the 24v to the th-w terminal to make it work the old module was a s86ooh
And i just searched the new model number to figure out how to make it work. The new one has self diagnostics on it. It cost 208$ with shipping