F3 fan setting is not working. F1 and F2 work fine, but when I switch to F3 the fan shuts off.

You need to check to make sure the condenser fan is blowing and that the condenser coil is clean. You absorb heat inside the refrigerator, compress that heat with the compressor, then expel the heat at the condenser (the part of the system that blows hot air). If you can't expel that heat, the unit will lock itself out until you reset it

Check the float water level switch. It may be dirty or jammed in the low - empty position.

bacause of the following reason
.Timing defrost by turning off:
When defrost sensor temperature defrost temperature (Parameter F2) and at the same time the defrost
interval time reaches the set value F3 then can enter to defrost, the fan will turn on, the compressor and
heater will turn off.
After worked a defrost interval time (Parameter F3) time, it will enter the stop mode automatically and
compressor will turn off.; after a defrost time(Parameter F1) will exit the defrost mode and enter to
automatic temperature control mode.

It sounds like it is just miswired. The low voltage wiring off the humidistat should be on W and C on the circ. board at the furnace. If you have it on R and C then it will power it constantly regardless if the heat is running or not. W is only energized on a call for heat which is typically when you want that type of humidifier to run

automatic, meaning it will self adjust as needed to keep the humidity level consistant

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You either have a defective power switch, or defective motor, your unit is under warrenty, so I suggest you return it..

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The current sensing relay must be attached to the blower motors common wire to work properly, this is usually the white wire coming off the motor.

The humidifier should not turn on untill the furnace blower starts. Since the fan stays on. does the solenoid valve also stay on? If they both stay on you probably have a bad humidistat. If only the blower stays on then the circuit bourd in the humidifier is defective.
Good luck
HVAC Teacher

There is a devise called a current sensing relay (a little black box that hangs on a blower motor wire that senses current from that wire) If you have such a devise it should hang from the white (common) wire. Loop the wire through twice.

A console humidifier that fails to humidify a room could have a bad humidistat, fan switch or float switch--problems that take specialized equipment to diagnose. But before you call in a pro, it's worth your time to test the fan motor and float assembly, since repairing them is something you can handle on your own. Testing and fixing the fan Steps: 1. Test the fan motor. While the machine is plugged in and full of water, turn both the humidistat knob and fan-control knob to high. If the fan hums but does not turn, or turns slowly, the motor needs to be replaced. If the fan won't move, you may have a bad switch somewhere. Call a professional. 2. To replace a bad fan motor, unplug the machine and disconnect the fan wires from the switch panel. You may have to pry apart a plug, use needle-nose pliers to pull the connectors off the switch, or unscrew the connectors. 3. Remove the old motor from its housing, using a Phillips screwdriver or a nut driver and socket. 4. Remove the fan blade from the motor. Use adjustable pliers to open the spring clamp at the center of the fan blade, and then slip the clamp off. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry off the blade, then set it aside. 5. Take the motor to an appliance store to buy a replacement. 6. Install the fan blade on the new motor, then install the motor and reattach the wires. Testing and fixing the float assembly Steps: 1. Locate the empty tank float assembly. This assembly consists of a switch, a connecting rod (on some units) and some type of float. It's supposed to shut down the machine when the water reservoir is low, but if the float jams in the down position, the dehumidifier won't turn on. 2. Check the float and connecting rod, if there is one. If the parts are bent and touching the cabinet, use gentle hand pressure to straighten them so they move freely. If your dehumidifier has a float switch that is triggered by the filter housing moving up and down, make sure the housing is centered in its tracks and moves freely. Clean any debris and dirt out of the channels, using a scrub brush. 3. Check that the float connecting rod is contacting the float switch. If it isn't, bend the end of the rod so it touches the switch.