20 Most Recent Alesis M1Active 320 Computer Speakers Questions & Answers

have you tried control panel,administrive tools,computer management,device manager,system devices, syatem speaker,right click to update driver,disable,uninstall,scan for hardwarwe changes select properties to troubleshoot

hope this helps

It probably doe snot have the drivers that operate these speakers.

The CD it is asking for may be included in the package with the speakers.
or you may have to download the drivers from the web page of the speaker distributors.

If both speakers failed at the same time, then I bet you changed a setting on the amplifier. This setting probably has something to do with either:

• the sound input (tuner, CD, tape, aux, etc...)
• the sound output (only if you have multiple possible outputs)

If one speaker failed, then the other speaker failed I would check your speaker wire and the connections on each side of the wire. It is possible that the wires were bumped, and pulled out enough to lose contact, or the connections could have corroded. Either way, this is fixable, just make metal contact and your speakers will be up and running again.
If your speakers started acting weird before they failed, then you may have blown them out, in which case you should buy new speakers.
If none of these situations apply, then your amplifier broke, and you need a whole new system.
I hope this was helpful.

Bad grounds or connections in the headphones. Try with another set. Or if it is new, something damaged in transit like a loose board.

Bad caps on the power supply

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Hello Alesis, Please follow the link below for more information. ALESIS M1 ACTIVE MK2 REPAIR TUTORIAL FUSE ISSUE

then something is open in the signal path....bad bypass switch, broken trace..etc..

I have one, it is about as thick as a dictionary...

You first need to check whether the relay you have used as a replacement has the same voltage on the coil as the original. You have wisely chosen one with a higher current rating on the switch contacts, which is a very good idea, but I suspect you've not looked at the coil voltage to ensure it's the same. For example, you may have installed a with a relay with a 12 volt coil, while the original had a 24 volt coil. Result? the new relay coil will overheat, as will the driver transistor. A simple test is to operate the amp until it feels hot, TURN IT OFF, quickly remove the top cover and see if the new relay feels hot. If it does, you need to source a replacement relay with the correct coil voltage. Usually the coil voltage is written on the body of the relay somewhere, so you should be able to identify it on the original unit airly easily