Washer fills with water and overflows:
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.
You didn't say when it was making the loud noise. During the wash cycle or spin cycle? An unbalanced washer will make a loud racket, too many clothes or actually not enough will make the basket bang around in there. If it has a center agitator, make sure it is tightened down. The screw is under the center Fabric Softener cup. That's the easy stuff to check. Now on mine, when you take the front panel off, I noticed that the hooks and springs that hold the basket up & in place and help keep it balanced, had actually over time had worn the round holes in the metal construction of the machine to oblong holes. Not much you can do about that. If the noise is coming from the motor, & you can't find a used cheap one, it would be more cost efficient to just use as long as you can and buy another machine. A loud noise could also be caused by a bad pulley. Hope this helps.
Good Morning Friend,
I understand that the spin cycle is extra loud in your Frigidaire washer, model# GLWS1233A. I also see that you have grease splattering inside the front and right side panels at the bottom of your appliance.
Certain amounts of clunking or gear sounds are normal in a heavy-duty washer.
If you are hearing any rattling or clanking sounds, there could either be foreign objects such as coins or it could be belt buckles or metal fasteners.
If you are hearing a squealing sound, your washer could be overloaded. Stop the cycle and reduce the load.
Thumping sounds usually means this is a heavy wash load. This is a usual sound, but if it continues, your washer could be out of balance. Stop the cycle and redistribute the wash load.
If you are receiving a vibrating sound, there are a couple of things that could be causing this.
1)Your washer is not resting firmly on the floor. Make sure your washer is resting firmly on the ground as well as level. You will want to make sure that it is level from front to back, side to side, as well as from corner to corner.
2)The wash load could be out of balance. Stop your washer and rearrange the wash load.
With you receiving grease splatters, depending on how much and how often, I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for assistance. They will be able to diagnose your washer as well as determine where the grease is coming from. Hope this is helpful.
-Best Regards-
WP
Hi Alex - Based on the symptoms you are describing, you may
either have a communication error from the main control board or the timer
itself may not be operating correctly. If you noticed a humming noise, it could
either be a clogged drainage hose or pump that needs to be cleaned, or it could
possibly have another issue with the door lock assembly. I would personally
contact a professional to accurately diagnose the washer to determine the root
cause to reduce the risk of unnecessary parts.
Mine is 10 yrs old and I am just now having a problem. Clothes are too damp after last spin cycle. Hopefully, I'll get an answer here soon. Another problem I noticed a few months after I got it, with this model, is the fabric softener dispenser on top of the agitator. You have to remove it every single time and clean it. I added a little water to it before adding fabric softener and thought that would help to stretch the cleaning to maybe once or twice a week. Don't do it! I started to smell mildew and found out why. The agitator shaft that this dispenser sits on was caked with old fabric softener. I just use the blue Downey ball now. The fabric dispenser stinks but I have had 10 yrs of good washing.
Does the drain pump make a humming noise? If so, there may be a restriction in the drain line or siphoning.Otherwise since it is such a complex unit I would recommend contacting a professional to have either the pump or timer diagnose.
see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly
If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch
assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid
switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any
electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches
should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly
If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock
assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically
or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter.
The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Water Inlet Valve
If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet
valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water
rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit
indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water
to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the
cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.
Main Control Board
If the washer stops mid-cycle the main
control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other causes
first such as the lid or door switch and other components.
Timer
If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might
be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components
before replacing this timer.
see the diagram
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced.If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:
Hi,
If you have a problem with your washeror dishwasher continuing to fillwith water after the valve has closed, then you this tip will help youunderstand why that is happening.
