20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

the electronic ignitor is at fault

Try this simple test. As the door opens or closes you should hear a muffled click of a switch. If you don't hear that click when the door is just ready to close or just opens the door switch or actuating arm has failed.

ignitor tells me its gas if so may be a problem fusess are usually under control pnl.

most old dryers have a funny clip in the front.....with a putty knife there r 2 flat clips in the front close to either end of the machine, if you get that popped then the top will open up,,,, or if you take off the back to where the controls r you'll see a couple of bolts then if you lift an pull to the back of the machine it will come off..then you'll see what you goota do... hope that helps...

you will want to see if your vent is clogged. It sounds to me like the unit is short cycling. that is usually means that the unit is not exhausting.

You need to clean your dryer vent and make sure there are no obstructions.

Check the ignitor underneath the drum. (You have to open the panel to see it) It should glow shortly after the dryer starts, then the flame starts and the ignitor shuts off. If the ignitor does not glow then it or the thermostat is bad. If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the flame sensor may have to be replaced. If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault.
See also: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-dryer.htm
If everything above is OK then the thermostat or the auto sensor is not working correctly.

nead to check ignitor,then the flame sencer on the right side of the cone.then check the high limit thermal switch on the left side of cone.you nead a continueaty meter to do this. if they check out you nead to call for service call.

Hello, If the lint filter is under the flap at the top lift the flap up and remove the 2 screws. Slide a putty knife under the lip between the top and the front panel about 3 inches from each end and push in the clips holding the top down. Lift the top up and look inside the machine either side and remove the 2 screws you see. now lift the front panel off. you now have access to inside the dryer :) Hope this helps! Mike

This is your motor. You have a very good dryer and if you will replace thispart, you should not have any more problems with this model!

fortunatly for you
the whirlpool belt is a pretty standard part,
any of the sears parts store, or any appliance parts store in your local area should have one
it is very common
part number'
8066065 with a sub to 341241 runs around 20.00

AP wagner elmgrove rd
585-254-2274

Go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link. On the following page, look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features secction. Whirlpool is listed as either diagram H or K. If you need help in determining WHICH diagram to use, post back with your complete model number (located around the door opening) and I can tell you. I hope this helps you.

In most gas dryer installations, a local shut-off valve is required. This means that behind the dryer, there should be a shut-off valve JUST for the dryer.
Now that you have the machine unplugged, slide it forward a little... not too much ...be careful of the gas connection.
There should be a gas shutoff valve .
For gas valves, when the handle is in line with the gas line (when the handle is parallel to the pipe or flex line, that means that the valve is open and gas can flow thru. IF THE HANDLE is at a 90 degree angle from the pipe, or flex, it's off.
Once the gas valve behind the dryer is off, you can disconnect the dryrer's gas line without shutting the gas off to the rest of your home. That way you'll not need to relight the pilot on the water heater...
K

Feel the coils on the gas valve. If they feel really hot to the touch then the coils are opening internally. They will cool off and work some more. Replace them.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

yes, the gs coil is not opening. Go to www.repairclinic.com put the model number in and get the gas valve. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

This is going to be wither the ignitor or the gas valve. If you can look in the back to see if the ignitor is 'glowing', then that usually means it's working and it's the gas valve coil. You should see the ignitor glowing 'orange' in color. This is to ignite the gas and it gives the gs coil power to open, it must be glowing or it's bad. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

i am sorry to hear this, mdg model number means that you have a gas dryer, you have a fuse and thermastat that needs to be replaced which is beneath the top behind the drum, you will see a short element, a blue thermastat and 2 white wires that goes down to a fuse.

when you buy the fuse, it comes as a kit, the thermastat and 2 fuses, one of the small fuses you will not use because one if for an electric dryer, so look at your fuse and notice a dot, i do believe your dot will be yellow...

so lift up the top and you will see these parts

Inside the tub in the dryer itself is a heating element behind the screen. Try replacing it. Unplug the machine first though.