20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It sounds like it never was the thermostat. Usually when a thermostat goes there is no heat at all, unless it was the cycling t-stat, but unlikely. This sounds like the dryer coils are failing. They tend to fail as they heat up. They are inexpensive and easy to replace.

Here is a video at this will walk you thru the troubleshooting a gas dryer. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.

The problem is commonly caused by defective valve coils. There are two of them located on the burner assembly. One is a two-terminal main coil. The other is a three-terminal pilot position coil. It is recommeded that you replace BOTH coils at the same time when one is suspected as begin defective. Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable with great service and competitve pricing. The first three sites also include exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part numbers for each coil is as follows:

Main - 694540
Pilot Position - 694539

The coils are listed as items 13 and 14 under the Burner Assembly parts listing.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

The problem is the dryer coils are failing. They tend to fail as they heat up. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html

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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

Hi Phillip. You are half way there by changing the ignitor. If a gas dryer burner lights and then rapidly goes out is it usually either a flame sensor. moisture sensor or high limit thermostat. I note you only get ONE light and it no longer lights.


Heater assembly or burner shuts off prematurely.
1. Improper or inadequate exhaust system.
1. Weather hood flapper maybe restricted.
1. See “Installation Instructions” for exhaust requirements.
Insufficient gas supply.
1. Verify gas shut-off valve is not partially open or closed.
1 Verify proper gas pressure is being supplied to unit.
(Dryer not properly equipped for type of gas
used.)
1 Verify gas type.
1 Refer to “Gas Burner Conversion Procedures”.
Improperly adjusted burner flame.
1 Properly adjust burner flame.


2. Limit thermostat cycling off. · Test limit thermostat and replace if failed.
3. Flame sensor contacts failed in closed position.
· Test flame sensor and replace if failed.
· Verify proper gas pressure is being supplied to unit.

4. Failed timer. · Test timer and replace if failed.
5. Failed electronic control. · Test electronic control and replace if failed.
6. Failed moisture sensing control. · Test moisture sensing control and replace if failed.
7. Broken, loose or incorrect wiring. · Refer to appropriate wiring diagram for correct wiring.

I still think we are dealing with a flame sensor, high limit thermostat or moisture sensor problem.
Things to check:

http://www.applianceaid.com/images/ldrm-gas-burner.jpg



Check 1 The moisture sensor is inside the dryer on the left side of the access. Make sure it is clean and that there are NO metal objects in around or near it. Some times things like straight pins.. paper clips.. staples.. bobby pins et all make their way on to and around moisture sensors.

After that check out the flame sensor on the side of the ducting:
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/radsnsr.gif
It should NOT read open. If it does or has a really high resistance it can be the culprit.

Then you will need to test the gas valve solenoids there are 2 different types. 3 pin and 2 pin http://applianceguru.com/dryers/gasdryervalveohms.gif

If found bad they are replaced as a set:

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/part-detail.php?affiliate_id=AppAid&item=279834&brand=WPL

There is still the thermistor and or the high limit thermostat depending on model.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

check the fus

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you for taking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Your power for the burner assy goes on a series circuit from the timer to the high-limit thermostat to the operating thermostat to the thermal fuse to the gas burner assy, thru the motor centrifugal switch to the door switch. EACH of these must be functioning for the burner to light.

This manual will help with some of the how to do it as far as component access, removal and replacement of parts.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4829abde74a34d7f85256ab000620794

Also this link has loads of information on what to check.
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/09/19/how-to-check-the-burner-components-in-a-gas-dryer/

The 3 most common failures are
Igniter:
Gas Valve
High Limit Thermostat

Compnents : http://fixitnow.com/appliantology/gasdryer.htm

Note the LINKS!

Here is a 9 min video that pretty much covers everything you need to check: http://www.howcast.com/videos/371390-How-To-Troubleshoot-a-Gas-Dryer-That-Wont-Heat

Thanks fo choosing FixYa.

Kelly
The

HI. This dryer burner assembly should be inspected for faults. I would also advise to check the gas line for punctures or worn coupling sections. Use my procedure below to test and inspect the burner assembly.

Burner assembly inspection procedure:

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

You should test the internal thermostats as well. The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap, on the heater chamber or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.


let me know the results of each test, if possible..

Standing by...

If the ignitor is coming on and cycling then you either have not paid the gas bill OR the solenoids are faulty more HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

That tells me you have a lint build up in the dyers exhaust vent tubing. Clean out all obstruction by removing the entire duckwork and reinstall. Then it shall heatup like it was new again. A moister sensor detects any clogged areas and puts the burner into a check mode stopping the heating process. It was manitory a decade ago so it will prevent home fires in dryers

The first thing to check is the igniter if it is glowing red hot or not. The issue is in the gas valve solenoids if the igniter glows red hot but no gas is being ignited, replace both gas valve solenoids. Otherwise, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off on the burner assembly and the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat on the blower housing. Here's the exploded view diagram showing where these parts are located. These parts are normally closed and wired in series with the gas valve assembly. Any discontinuity found simply implies the part has failed and cut the power going to the gas valve assembly resulting in the no heat issue.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed and both the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat if the thermal fuse have failed. Failure of the thermal fuse simply indicates the failure of the cycling thermostat to cycle and regulate the dryer temperature below the thermal fuse limit.

Feel free to update us about the development of the troubleshooting and repair of your dryer. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information or post comments and follow-up questions should you need further assistance. Accepting a solution does not stop you from communicating with an expert. You can continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

Hi,
Here is the link to buy the ignitor for your unit..
it is like the fifth part down...
http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-LGB6300%20-%3d%3d
If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

If the model number you listed this question under is correct, there is a Thermal Fuse in the back of the dryer that, if blown, will prevent the dryer from running. To access, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer and SHUT OFF gas supply.

2. Locate and remove the rear panel screws on the back of the dryer.

3. With the rear panel removed, the Thermal fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the left-hand side of the dryer (as viewed from the rear). It is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached.

4. Disconnect the wires to iosolate the fuse and measure across the leads with a multi-meter. The fuse should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If it reads an open (infinite), the fuse is bad.

NOTE: If you do not have a multi-meter another simple way to prove the fuse bad is to make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED and disconnect the two wires from the fuse and jumper them together. Plug the dryer back in and, if it runs normally with the fuse by-passed, the fuse is bad. CAUTION: DO NOT leave the dryer by-passed in this manner, Use only as a TEMPORARY means to troubleshoot your problem.

If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. Most commonly, this is caused by a dryer that is overheating. I would recommend that you fully inspect your dryer ventilation ducting inside the cabinet and from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits you home. Make sure there are no kinks, clogs or choke points that will keep the dryer from ventilating correctly. A dryer in a clogged state will not heat efficiently and will eventually overheat to the point of failure. This will result in repeated failures of any components you may replace.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you with locating and properly identifing any parts you may need. The Thermal Fuse part number is 3392519 and is listed as item 7 under the "Bulkhead" parts listing.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

It could be several other things thermal fuse, thermal cut out, hi limit thermostat, dryer coils, heat sensor,or igniter. All of these parts are inexpensive and easy to test and replace.There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html his will walk you thru the troubleshooting of these components. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.

turn the gas on or you might have air in the line.


if that dont work check out the ignitor