20 Most Recent Zanussi ZWF1430W Front Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it is very very difficult to replace the door seal on a zanussi washing machine, its best fitted by an engineer

If there is no removeable cover on washer, then you have to remove therear half of the cabinet to gain access to the drum etc.

Hi, Based on what you've described, you need a door lock/switch assembly. It is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consiquently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, aside from pump's being obstructed. I think it fool's many people because the lock indicates it is energized on the panel, however the built in "monitor" switch inside the assembly fail's. I work for Sear's so I do see a lot of these particular machine's...unfortunately. You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's. They usually sell for about $50 or so and are relatively easy to replace. Let me know if I can assist you further. Thank you for visiting "fixya" today. Good luck. macmarkus :)

Remove the drain outlet hose from the outlet , and lay the hose down into a bucket or similar, and the water should syphon out, thus enabling you to open the door.
Check the filter after you have done this.
Hope this helps.

I had the E90 problem about a year or so ago. Havng had a problem with my Zanussi dishwasher a common fault with zanussi white goods is that they don't solder major joints on the control boards very well. (Probably tryng to economise of the amount of solder they use)

Check all the connections on the control board are tight and haven't burnt off the solder. This worked for me and we haven't had this code since.

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you
go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. It's been about 55 years since I had experience with front load washers. However I can refer you to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good and complete trouble shooting and repair information on front loaders. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Lower the drain hose which will allow the water to drain out (by gravity) into a bucket or floor drain. Unplug the machine for about 5 minutes, then see if the door will open. If not, try to advance the controller manually to the end of cycle. Does the machine display any error codes, or is it strictly a clock driven controller with no electronics? If the machine is still under warranty, take advantage!

I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. It's been about 55 years since I had experience with front load washers. However I can refer you to Applianceaid.com where they have very good and complete trouble shooting and repair information on front loaders. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

This is caused by a faulty pressure switch or the hose from the drum to the pressure switch is not fixed property.

Powercuts and power surges do sometimes affect electronic controls.

It is obvious that the main drum bearings have failed, this is a major repair, and not one to undertake yourself, unless you know what you are doing and feel competent to tackle the repair.
May be cheaper to replace the washer long term.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.

zanussi error E20 suggests a pump/draining problem. remove pump/filter and clean it all out. its located at the end of the drain hose at the bottom of machine. power off. it might need replacement.

is the door locking? if not check the interlock. if ok check the motor brushes

This is most likely due to having the height of the drain hose too low in the drain pipe so the water siphons out as the machine tries to fill up. This will eventually lead to an F20 error displaying saying that the machine was not able to fill with enough water in the 6 minutes allowed by the on board controller in the Whirlpool.

The solution is to measure the height of the top of the arch of the drain hose or direct connecting point to a drain and make sure that his is at least 32 inches and no mort than 36 inches from the floor.

Assuming its pumping out ok, sounds like motor brushes..if not pump clear filter..

Try Cleaninfg the filter/ check pump for jamming...

E20 is a general error code to get to the real problem try this..
Reading Error Codes 1. Wake the washer by pressing any button. 2. Wait 5 seconds. 3. Press and hold the START/PAUSE and CANCEL buttons simultaneously. As long as the buttons are held, the failure code will appear in the display as an “E” followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash. let me know what code come up... hope it helps

Try unpligging for 15 seconds then replugging. My bosch washer does this maybe once a month and this works for mine. If it continues frequently you may need to contact a repair tech..

HI. you may have a defective idler pulley. excessive bearing clearance can cause the belt to slip off at times. A worn belt will slip off as well. i suggest gaining access to the belt to inspect for damage. you can start by pressing in the middle of the longest straight run. It should deflect no more that one inch. also inspect the belt for cracks, frayed edges or other signs of excessive wear. if any damage or excessive looseness is found, replace asap. It could also be stretched.

((You can check the pulley by removing the belt and physically rotating the pulley, if the pulley has excessive wobbling or shifting, replace it))