20 Most Recent Qsc Plx-2502 450w Per-Ch. 8 Ohms Amplifr Plx2502 Questions & Answers

Disconnect speakers. With NO input, if clip light remains on, take in for repair as there is an internal failure. If reducing the gain and loudness keeps the clip off, then you are probably driving the amp too hard. This is common problem when the user "thinks" they need it louder but the amp speaker combination will not deliver louder. At this point, both the amp and the speakers are at risk of permanent damage requiring repair.

You should NOT drive the amplifier into the clipping mode continuously. There is a possibility that you have fried your speakers or that they are the real problem. You haven't told us what you were driving, however this amp will deliver 450 Watts per side RMS at 8 ohms which means your speakers have to be rated at least that much RMS power for continuous. When speaker voice coils fry, they can wipe out amplifiers. Let us know what speakers you are using and how they are configured. This amp is going to be expensive to repair I can tell by looking at the schematic: Here is the schematic:

http://elektrotanya.com/qsc_plx2502.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download it. IGNORE other download links.

This amp has circuits to boost the power supplies to the amps to handle the peaks. It is rather complex but the schematics are complete and have good explanations... some of the best I have seen. There are going to be a lot of destroyed components and great care has to be used after repair to "cold start" the unit to make sure nothing else is bad or it will blow up again. Most people do NOT have trouble with the QSC amps... so do tell me what speakers you are using and how they are configured so we can verify the design is correct. This amp is rated for 8 ohms so USUALLY only ONE speaker can be connected per side... and finding an 8 ohm speaker that can take 450 watts continuous RMS isn't easy. People fall for the advertising claiming "Peak" and "Program" power which are FAKE advertising... ONLY use continuous RMS power when sizing amps and speakers. There are MANY ways to cook out equipment... One is to boost the bass or the treble way up. Another is to NOT use balanced interconnect lines between mixers and your amps. Yet another is to NOT power ALL interconnected equipment from a single receptacle or power conditioning module. Please describe your setup further so I can help you more!

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

'pianoforte'

BREV. N. 838420

See page 22 troubleshooting of this manual. It may help you. dd501 (yamaha.com)

Depending on the model, there are four around that date, it could be the insert jacks are tarnished reducing the signal flow between the pre amp stage and digital power amplifier. It could be the power amplifier has failed. It could even be customer error in wiring. This assumes there is the correct level of signal entering the input sockets of course.

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It's a Line 6 and probably requires a software update from Line 6.

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The Roland RD-600 is a digital piano, and its hammer action mechanism is designed to simulate the feel of an acoustic piano. The hammers in digital pianos like the RD-600 are typically made of materials like plastic or a combination of materials to replicate the weighted feel of acoustic piano keys. The breaking of hammers in a digital piano is not a common issue, and it's not typically related to the age of the instrument alone. Several factors could contribute to the breakage of hammers, and it's essential to consider the following possibilities:

1. Excessive Force: If the keys are played with excessive force or if there's any physical damage to the instrument, it could lead to the breakage of hammers.
2. Material Quality: The quality of materials used in the construction of the hammers can impact their durability. If the hammers are made from subpar materials, they may be more prone to breaking.
3. Manufacturing Defects: In some cases, there could be manufacturing defects that make the hammers more susceptible to breakage.
4. Maintenance: Lack of proper maintenance, such as cleaning and regular inspection, may contribute to the wear and tear of components, including hammers.

If you've observed a pattern of hammers breaking with regularity, it might be worth investigating the specific cause. If it's due to excessive force or physical damage, adjusting playing habits and taking care during transport can help mitigate the issue. As for whether it's worth purchasing new hammers from Roland, it depends on the extent of the damage and the overall condition of the instrument. If the RD-600 is in good condition otherwise and you enjoy playing it, replacing the hammers could be a reasonable option. However, you may want to assess the cost of replacement hammers compared to the overall value of the instrument, factoring in the cost of a used RD-600 and any potential future maintenance needs.

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According to the information I found, the serial number 103220 on your piano indicates that it was manufactured between 1910 and 1915

User Manual V-TONE GM108 (musictribe.com) Following page may help to resolve your issue Behringer V-TONE GM108 Support and Manuals (helpowl.com)

I know this post is super old, but it was one of the first hits I had when searching this problem, so I'll post it here in the hopes that it will help someone. I found that I had to get under the cover, and clean/lube the plastic post on the assembly that pushes the button on the circuit board. It's a plastic post that slides in a plastic slot. I think it just gets contaminated with dust and that is the main cause. Philips screwdriver gets you under the cover and removes the two screws that hold that assembly together. Obviously be really careful to not break the plastic post. Looks like the wrong kind of force would snap it very easily. I used Deoxit Fader Lube, sprayed on a rag, and wiped the surfaces where the plastic parts touch. Put it back together and worked the pedal a few times, no squeak.