20 Most Recent American Standard 4275.550.002 ColonySoft Gooseneck Kitchen Faucet w/Two M - Page 5 Questions & Answers

it is called hydraulic hammer nd meant that you have very good pressure in your lanes, if it start suddenly, this meant that your air chamber lost it's air, in that case simplest solution will be as follows:

1. close the mains,
2. open all taps (fawcets) and drain all water from the system,
3. close all taps (fawcets)
4. open mains and check if hammer is still present.

if hammer is still present, that meant you need to clean your airchamber, you need to find where it is lockated, follow steps 1 and 2, open airchamber, check if any debris inside and clean, re-seal the chamber, then follow steps 3 and 4.

if hammer was always, this meant that you do not even have airchamber. you can install one easy for yourself, just purchase one, and best place for it is on the end of the line, somehere close to most offending faucet.

if you find this advice helpfu, please do not hesitate leave your remark and give me your vote, thanx!

So are you going to build your own? Is it going to be for cold water only? Cheaper to buy a safe manufactured one. And a bladder tank is even better : Shell thickness: The minimum thickness
of a shell shall be determined using the
following equation:
Ts = PR/ES
E = Weld efficiency for longitudinal welds
(0.85).
NOTE: E = 1 if 100% of production
is tested at the maximum
working pressure.
S = Yield strength 20,000 psi
(140,000 KpA) or greater if certified
by the manufacturer.
See this link. http://www.watersystemscouncil.org/VAiWebDocs/standards_docs/ANSI_Final_0905.pdf

hi, sorry no answers for your homework but check out this link and the example at the bottom of the page is what you need
http://www.coilgun.info/theoryinductors/dampedoscillator.htm
hope this helps

Pry up on handle on 2 opposite sides, with 2 screwdrivers, it will press & lift up & off.

http://www.plumbingdirect.com/american-standard-060342-2950a-handle-for-silhouette-sng-lev-kit-cast-s/p7620

If it just hums when turned on, it MAY be just jammed with something, or the motor may be bad. Leave the unit OFF, take a piece of wood long enough to reach down in the unit to the blades (like a wooden broom handle) and see if you can spin the blades with the end of the broom handle. If you can maybe that will dislodge the jam, if you can not maybe the motor is gone. The try the unit with the switch again with water running. Good luck. I doubt the hole with the screw in the bottom is a reset.

The counter-top has absorbed water and expanded. You might be able to stop, or at least slow down the expansion by caulking it, but that would be marginal, and it's not going to look good. If the problem is only along the front edge you might be able to cut out the bad part and glue a piece of solid wood in it's place --- this would be the cheapest fix if you could do it yourself, but it would be rather difficult to make it look good. I'm afraid the only real fix is to replace the counter-top.

You MAY need a "basin wrench" which has a long bar and an end that grabs like a Stilson wrench.

A site with pix:

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Prod-PST151-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B001B00LCA

is your main valve all the way open?It is possible that there is a small rock in the water distribution line,I no it may sound silly that a pebble can get inside a pressurize water line

Hello
Is there a water restrictor in the shower head?A small round disc usually white or clear.
This could be clogged.

Next,take a old toothbrush and some comet cleanser and scrub the showerhead holes,this will get any hard water deposits out of the holes.

Hi. It sounds like the rubber washers you have are too large. Go to a good hardware store with the valves and let their plumbing expert assist you. J.

I don't know what model it is, all you need is the brand, they are all the same on the inside. Shut off the water, take the handle off, pull the cartridge out and take it to the hardware store and match it up. A fairly simple job. Hope this helps.

Usually debris is blocking the way. Turn off valves, remove lines and clear the way.

They didn't put the attachment on correctly. Look at the directions for the sprayer. It's a black little piece with grey clips. U need to put it on correctly so it seals. That should stop the leak!

Hi, looking at this straight on, you will see 2 screws going through the lever plug section. What it looks like on the inside, is a long brass rod connected to another brass rod with a adjustable section on it and a brass looking piston at the end. If you remove the 2 screws, grab hold of the lever and chrome plate and pull straight out and up to remove the assembly.No worry, nothing will fall in as it is all one piece. You can try cleaning the lever section up and add some wd-40 to it and this may help some. It sounds to me like the lever ball joint is worn out, so it is best replaced. Home Depot has them for under $20.00. Take the old one with you and if need be you can adjust the new one to the same length as the old one. It will keep hanging up on you believe me. Good Luck,
Shastalaker7

Faucets are fastened with nut(s) under the sink.
-Turn off and disconnect the water supply hose from the faucet.
-If this is a faucet with a sprayer you will need to disconnect the sprayer hose from the faucet as well.
-If this is a bathroom sink you will have to disconnect the drain stopper assembly, this should be self-explain when you look at it.
-Remove the nuts or nut holding the faucet in place. This can be a difficult task to get a wrech or pliers on the nut(s). If you are having difficulty you may need to acquire a tool called a "basin wrench" most hardware stores carry them ask for it, if the person knows his department he will take you right to it. They arn't terribly exspensive.

I had a similar problem where the Drain-Kit that I ordered was missing a part. After contacting American Standard and requesting a schematic. I realized that the missing part was the rocker assembly with stopper. I have a PDF of the schematic that I can send you if you still need it. Let me know. The alternative is to contact American Standard directly between 8am and 6pm Eastern and request the information. The phone number is (800) 442-1902 Option 3 then 1 then 2. Tell the person that you need the installation instructions for a 1583.470.xxx universal bath drain.

Amost guarantee it's a problem with the sealing O-Ring(s) that sits between the faucet body and the spout (or gooseneck). Fixing this requires disassembling the faucet. Allen keys, pliers, Screwdrivers required for this operation.

After you have the faucet apart, use open mesh grit cloth to sand the inside body of the spout, wipe it clean and grease it with silicone grease. New O-Rings may be indicated as well, but if the old ones looks ok (eg. the don't come off black on your fingers and they don't look compressed or kinked) grease them as well and reassemble faucet.

how do you remove bathtub drain stopper. manually screws open--won't twist off--no screws apparent????

The opening below the strainer (the drain connection) has to have a backing nut, or it would have never sealed. Look again under the sink. It'll be a large diameter nut. You should be able to feel the threads. If possible, I prefer to remove the sink from the opening and work on it in the open, with the sink upside down. If you can locate the nut, get someone to keep it from spinning in the hole while you turn the nut. The easiest way to move these things without the proper wrench is to put penetrating oil on it, and drive it loose with a hammer and chisel. Best regards, --W/D--