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Hay got my kxf250 fixed at a shop for the second time and the problem is still there i have no grut down low to the point where the bike wants to stall or is getting too much fuel. only happens at low revs mainly in first gear. its real bad wen going up big hills. high revs not a problem bike goes hard can u plz help. thanks
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You may need the brakes bled and checked for leaks. You may not be seeing any leaks because there is no fluid in the brakes. Have a local bike shop check it out.
If your bike has an ignition coil, I'd check that. Sometimes when the bike heats up, an open that may not be enough to stop it from running when cold can widen enough to where it won't start when it's hot, but while it's running it'll have enough voltage to jump the open.
Sounds like you had to disconnect the battery to stop the starter from spinning.
I've had that happen quite a few times and heres what i found and did to fix the problems.
1. I had an old american bike in the shop with a low battery. I didn't know the battery was
low when i hit the start button. The starter solenoid stayed engaged, and the starter kept
turning over the motor, I pulled the battery terminal off to stop the power to starter.
I check battery and it was low, i put full charge on trickle charge and then let it sit
a 1/2 hour before i tested it with the load tester.
It failed big time, dropped all the way to bottom of the scale under a load test
Installed a new battery and fixed the problem. The solenoid, start button, kill switch, key switch all works, it was just a low battery.
2. I had a customer call me because he ran out of gas, when he got gas he turned the bike over for a long time trying to fill the carburetors with gas,
Never hold the start button down for long periods of time. He did and the wires got so hot that the positive wire from the battery to the solenoid melted and stayed engaged.
It was an easy fix, replace the melted solenoid, and only hold the start button in 5 second intervals, allowing it to cool in between starts.
Once the bowls were full again and the bike starts, then it only takes about a second for the bike to start so you normally dont hold the start button for that long.
take off the cam cover look at your cam and there should be two lines on either side, make sure the bike is on top dead center and put the cam to where the two lines are level with the head. count 26 pins from line to line.
It sounds like time to do a top end job. The head will need to come off, then the valves should be re-seated. Carbon should be removed from the head and piston crown. Since you did not mention any engine smoking, I assume the rings are okay. If you are going to do anything with the cylinder, piston and rings, now would be a good time. But remember, if it isn't broken don't fix it.
If you do the work yourself be sure to start with the piston on TDC compression. Note the timing marks stamped on the overhead cam. The piston and marks will need to be in the same position when reassembling.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
basically that problem comes from "banging" gears. that bike is 23 years old.its likely the shifting forks are bent to the point of just getting it into 2nd. only fix is to replace them. if they havent been replaced since the bike was new, its outstanding its only starting now. beware, if not replaced soon, its possible you may end up losing your 2nd gear. hope this helps..
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