How do you remove throttle/idle control cable from lower switch housing.

REMOVAL
Loosen the cable adjuster jam nuts, screw the throttle cable adjuster until it is as short as possible, remove the two screws that hold the handlebar housing together to separate the upper and lower housings, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle grip and lower housing, remove the air cleaner assembly and disconnect the throttle cables from the carburetor, pull the cable from the housing by placing a drop of oil on the retaining ring that holds the cable in the housing, then firmly pull the bent tubing portion of the cable out of the housing using a rocking motion. The cables can be removed from the carburetor by pulling the outer housing away from plate above the throttle wheel and then with slack in the inner cable twisting the inner cable to allow the swaged end to release from the slot in the throttle wheel and then pull the inner cable out through the mounting plate hole.

If you will reuse the cable wash all components in non-flammable cleaning solvent, carefully blow all parts dry with low pressure compressed air, replace the control cables if frayed, kinked or bent, put one or two drops of oil into the housing of each control cable.

INSTALLATION
Apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and to the inside surface of the housings, attach the control cable assemblies to the lower housing, push the silver insert of the throttle cable housing into the hole in front of the tension adjuster screw, push the gold insert of the idle cable housing into the hole at the rear of the tension adjuster screw, install the adjusting screw, spring and friction pad in the lower housing if they were removed, position the throttle grip on the handlebar, place the lower housing on/over the throttle grip, position the ferrules and retaining rings over the cable balls and seat them in the throttle notches, fasten the upper housing to the lower housing using two screws tightened to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm), CHECK the throttle cable routing, on FXD, FXDL and FXDX models, the throttle cables are routed between the headlamp bracket and the front fork upper bracket and then under right side of tank to carburetor. On FXDXT models the throttle cables are routed through a wire form that is mounted on the upper fork bracket. On FXDWG models, the throttle cables are routed behind the front fork upper bracket, then under the right side of the fuel tank to the carburetor, install the throttle cables on the carburetor and adjust them at the handlebars and re-install the air cleaner. The throttle cables must be clear of steering stops and not be so tight that the idle speed will be changed when turned from steering stop to steering stop.

Throttle Cable Adjustment
To adjust the throttle cables turn the cable adjusters and jamnuts as short as they will go so that both cables will have zero adjustment at the start of the adjustment procedure. THEN with the front wheel pointing straight ahead turn the throttle grip wide open and hold it there, turn the throttle cable adjuster to lengthen the sleeve until the throttle cam just touches the cam stop. THEN tighten the adjuster jamnut and release the throttle. THEN turn the front wheel full right and turn the idle cable adjuster to lengthen the sleeve until the cable housing just touches the spring in the cable support sleeve. THEN recheck the adjustment by working the throttle grip to be sure the cable returns to idle position when released. If the cable does not return to idle, turn idle adjuster to shorten the sleeve until the correct adjustment is reached and then tighten the jamnut. The throttle control must operate freely without binding.

For twist grip equipped motorcycles to remove the throttle or right side grip remove the upper and lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar. (To remove the throttle grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release index pins in grip from receptacle in seal cap of twist
grip sensor.)

With throttle cables, to remove the throttle or right side grip slide the rubber boot off of each cable adjuster, loosen the jam nut on each adjuster, turn the adjusters in the direction that will shorten the cable housings to their minimum lengths. THEN remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing, unhook the ferrules and cables from the throttle control grip and the lower housing, (remove friction spring, throttle friction screw and spring from the lower housing only if necessary), (only if and as necessary mark the position of the master cylinder assembly forward position and split line on the handle bars) (to be safe squeeze the front brake lever and place a 5-32 inch thick cardboard insert between brake lever and lever bracket and then release brake lever to hold the lever in this place to protect the brake switch from damage if the switch housing and the master cylinder get separated) (and only if and as necessary, loosen the two perch screws) move the lower switch housing as necessary and remove the grip.

To install the throttle grip apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and the inside surface of the upper and lower housings, (if removed, install the spring, throttle friction screw and friction spring in the lower housing) (and, if removed, attach the cable assemblies to the lower housing), (throttle control cable has a 5-16 inch fitting end and is positioned to the front of the lower housing. and the idle control cable has a 1-4 inch fitting end and is positioned to rear of lower housing. Install the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar, position the lower housing onto the right handlebar, engaging the lower housing with the throttle control grip, position the ferrules over the cable ball ends, seat the ferrules (with the cables attached) into their respective notches of the throttle control grip, install the upper housing over the right side handlebar and secure it to the lower housing with the appropriate two screws and hand tighten them, then align the brake master cylinder and perch assembly with the marks made prior to loosening them, and beginning with top screw, tighten the two screws to 108-132 inch lbs using a T27 TORX drive head and then tighten the upper and lower housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs. THEN point the front wheel straight ahead and WITH THE ENGINE OFF, adjust the throttle and idle cables by turning the adjuster in the direction that will lengthen the cables. Gently twist the throttle control grip to the fully open throttle position (fully counterclockwise) and hold it in this position and turn the throttle control cable adjuster counterclockwise until the throttle cam on the induction module (or carb) contacts the throttle cam stop, release the throttle control grip and turn the adjuster counterclockwise an additional 1-2 to 1 turn and tighten the jam nut on the throttle control cable adjuster. THEN turn the handlebars fully to the right and turn the adjuster on the idle control cable counterclockwise to lengthen the sleeve until the end of the cable housing just touches the spring within the cable guide. NOW check the adjustment by, with the throttle friction screw loosened, twisting and releasing the throttle control grip two or three times. The induction module throttle wheel must return to the idle position each time the throttle grip is released. If the throttle does not return to idle, turn the idle adjuster, shortening the cable sleeve until the correct adjustment is obtained, tighten the jam nut and slide the rubber boots over each cable adjuster. NEXT start the engine and with it idling turn the handlebars through their full range of travel and if the engine speed changes at all during this maneuver, adjust the control cables according to the foregoing procedure so that there is no change in the idle speed when the handlebars are rotated through their entire range of travel.


To remove the clutch or left side grip remove the two screws and separate the upper housing from the lower housing. Mark the forward position and clutch perch split line on the handlebars and then as necessary loosen the two clutch perch screws and move it out of the way so that you can access the grip end. If you want to save the grip take a small screwdriver with about an eight inch length and insert it into the grip, wiggling it to loosen the glue somewhat and then spray some brake kleen into the space under the grip where the screwdriver blade is inserted and wiggle and twist the screwdriver around to loosen the rest of the grip glue and pull the grip off. Sand down the handle bar area where the grip will rest and apply grip cement to the area and slip the grip on. If the left hand grip is patterned, align it with the pattern on the right hand grip with the throttle in the fully closed position, immediately push the grip completely onto the end of handlebar using a twisting motion. Do not hesitate when installing the grip or the adhesive may dry before installation is complete. Allow 6 to 8 hours to elapse at 70 degrees F to allow the adhesive to fully cure. If a newer non-glue grip is being installed slip it on with the flats properly oriented to fit with the switch housing halves when they are installed. Install the switch housing halves and lightly tighten the two screws and then orient the clutch perch to the previously made alignment marks and beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 108 - 132 inch lbs using a T27 drive head and then tighten the switch housing screws to 35-45 inch lbs.

Usually when the brake light stays on it's because the front brake light switch is broken. You can try loosening the front master cylinder clamp and slide it back against the right handlebar switch housing. If that doesn't extinguish the brake light, the switch is probably broken. You'll have to go inside the right handlebar switch housing to replace the switch. Loosen the adjustment on the throttle and idle cables, remove the two screws that holds the switch housing halves together and separate the halves. Take the cables loose from the throttle sleeve, don't lose the ferrules on the ends of the cables. Lower the lower half of the switch housing and you'll see the switch in the front of it. You'll probably have to desolder the wires, replace the switch, the resolder the wires to the new switch. Make sure you get the throttle assembly back together correctly and that it works properly. Don't pinch any wires when putting the switch housing back together

Good Luck
Steve

Loosen the front brake master cylinder clamping bolts and slide the entire assembly down towards the right handlebar switch housing as close as it will go. If the brake light does not go off then, the switch in the right handlebar switch housing is broken and must be replace.

To replace the switch, you must take the two bolts that hold the housing halves together out. Lift the upper half and loosen the throttle cable and idle cable. Remove the throttle sleeve and allow the lower half of switch housing to come away from the handlebar. The front brake light switch is the small switch in front of the housing. Unsolder the wires, replace the switch with a new one, and resolder the original wires to the new switch. Reassemble the throttle sleeve and switch housing, adjust the throttle cable and idle cable and check for proper operation.

Ride safe
Steve

I would guess that you have a bad front brake light switch. The switch in located in the right handlebar switch housing. To get to it, you'll have to loosen the adjusters on your throttle and idle cables. Then take out the two screws holding the switch housing halves together. Disconnect the throttle and idle cables from the throttle sleeve and carefully separate the two switch housing halves. The brake light switch is the small switch located in the front of the housing. You will have to de-solder the wires from the switch, replace the old switch with a new one by removing the screw that holds the switch in place, then re-solder the wires to the new switch.

Lubricate the handlebar and the inside of the throttle sleeve with some thin grease and install it back into the lower switch half. Reconnect the throttle and idle cables and carefully reassemble the two switch housing halves being very careful not to pinch any wires. Slide the throttle assemble all the way up against the front brake master cylinder. Readjust the two cables leaving just a bit of slack in each one. Turn the throttle wide open and let it go. The throttle should "snap" shut. If not, readjust the position of the throttle assembly on the handlebars and the cable adjustment until it does.

Good Luck
Steve

More than likely, the front brake light switch in the right handlebar switch housing is broken. The rear brake light switch is a pressure switch located in a tee fitting in the metal brake line going to the rear brake from the rear master cylinder. They do give problems but not very often.

To repair the swith, you'll have to loosen the throttle and idle cables. Take the two bolts that holds the switch housing together out and lift the top half of the switch housing up. Then, you'll problably want to remove the throttle sleeve and grip assembly. The switch is located in the lower half of the switch housing.

The switch is held in by a single screw. Remove the screw to free the switch. If you wish to keep the wiring on our bike looking original, you'll have to desolder the wires and then solder them back onto the new switch.

When you reassemble the switch housing/ throttle assembly, make sure you get the throttle cables adjusted correctly and they work freely. You want just a bit of slack in each cable. If you get them too tight, the bike may not idle properly or the throttle may stick. Failure to insure proper operation of the throttle could result in lose of control of the bike and result in serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

Try this, Loosen the two bolts that holds the front master cylinder onto the handlebars. Slide the master cylinder as close to the right handlebar switch housing as possible. If that doesn't extinguish the light, your front brake light switch is probably broken.

To change the switch, you'll have to open the right handlebar switch housing by removeing the two bolts that holds it together, take the throttle and idle cables loose and get the lower housing loose from the handlebar. The switch is held into the inner face of the housing by a single screw. Take the switch loose and desolder the two wires leading to it. Replace the old switch with a new one and solder the original wires to the new switch. Reassemble the throttle assembly and the switch housing. Check the throttle for proper operation. Make sure the throttle "snaps" shut when you release the throttle grip. Improper assembly or adjustment of the throttle cables can cause the loss of control of the motorcycle resulting in serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

First loosen the idle cable and get as much slack as you can in it. You may have to loosen the throttle cable as well but don't do it until you have to. Take the two bolts that hold the right side switch housing together. Carefully remove the top half and roll the throttle sleeve to bring the idle cable up enough so that you can work the barrel out of the throttle sleeve. There is a barrel on the ball end of the cable, take it off and don't lose it. Now work the cable out of the lower right switch half. It has a small ring the locks into a groove inside the housing. Sometimes they can be very difficult to get out. Just spray some penetrating oil in there and keep working with it.

Once you have the cable out of the switch housing, remove the air cleaner cover, the air filter element, and the backing plate from the carb. Now, you can get that end of the cable out of the carb mechanism.

Installation is the reverse of taking the old one off. When you adjust the cables, adjust the cable so that you have a little slack in each cable. When you roll the throttle open and let go, the throttle should "snap" shut. If not, work with it until you get it where it does. You may have to move the switch housing as far inward towards the center of the handlebars and then back it off about a 1/4" or so to keep the closed end from dragging on the end of the handlebars.

Good Luck
Steve

The right side handgrip is the throttle sleeve assembly and grip combined. To get it out, first, adjust both the throttle cable and the idle cable (both cable going into the throttle assembly) to give you as much slack as possible. Loosen the two bolts that hold the front brake master cylinder on and move the master cylinder towards the center of the handlebars just a bit. The remvove the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully move the top half away. There are a lot of wires in this housing and you don't want to break or pinch any of them.

Now, you can see the round part of the throttle sleeve and where the cables connect to it. Each of the cables has a ferrel on the ball on the end of the cable. Do not lose these ferrels. Work each of the cables with the ferrell out of it's hole in the throttle sleeve. Lower the bottom half of the switch housing and remove the throttle sleeve from the handlebar.

Now, before installing the new sleeve, lubricate the handlebar, the inside of the throttle sleeve, and the round part where the cables go with white lithium grease. Slide the throttle sleeve back up on the handlebar and reverse you disassembly procedure to get it back together. Be very careful not to pinch any of the wires when you reassemble the swith housing. Once you have the housing together but before you tighten it down, slide the throttle grip toward the center of the handlebars until it stops and then back it off about a half inch or so then reposition the front brake master cylinder as close to the right switch houseing as possible and tighten all screws.

Adjust the throttle cable and the idle cable so that they each have just a bit of slack in them. Twist the throttle grip to the wide open throttle position (engine off of course) and let it go. The throttle should snap back to the idle position. If it doesn't, work with the throttle until it does.

Failure to insure the proper throttle operation could lead to a loss of control of the machine resulting in serious injury or death. This job MUST be done correctly.

Good Luck
steve

If you want pictures, I'm afraid that you'll have to purchase a manual somewhere. This forum will only allow me to send a picture of 150Kb size. Replacing the throttle grips is not difficult.

First, loosen the locknuts on the throttle and idle cables at the twist grip. Adjust the adjuster barrel inwards all the way getting as much slack as possible. Now, loosen the bolts holding the front master cylinder onto the handlebars and slide it towards the center of the bars just a bit. Remove the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully lift the top portion of the switch housing and move it towards the front of the bike exposing the throttle twist grip. Work each of the cables out of the nylon wheel of the twist grip. Do not loose the barrels that go on the ends of each cable. Once you have the cables loose from the wheel, lower the lower switch housing and remove the right grip from the handlebar.

Now, take the new grip and apply a coating of white lithium grease to the wheel part and the inside of the throttle sleeve in the grip. Put a coating of grease on the handlebar end where the sleeve rides as well. Slide the throttle sleeve and grip onto the handlebars. Bring the lower switch half up and reconnect the cables to the throttle wheel. Carefully reposition the top half to the switch housing and make sure that no wires are being pinched. Install the two bolts but don't tighten. Slide the throttle grip all the way up on the handlebars and then back off about a 1/4" or so. Tighten the two bolts. Now, adjust the two cables to where they each have just a bit of slack. Turn the throttle grip to the wide open position and release it. The throttle should snap shut. If not, work with it until you get it to where it does. Once operating properly, reposition the front brake master cylinder.

Make sure your throttle operates properly. An improperly operating throttle control can cause lose of control of the bike resulting in serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve