I have 99 f6 with 6-6 pipes if I remove baffles do I have to rejet

Removing the baffles will lean out the mixture, so either rejetting the carb, or reprogramming the ECM or a "piggy-back" unit installed will be needed.

Actually, open "straight" pipes are the worse for performance, as some back pressure is needed.

Also, to help performance with a "free flowing" exhaust, a more "free flowing" air cleaner would be needed.

hi the air box and exhaust restrict the air movement through the cyclinders to match the jets in the carbs. i have bikes that you can remove baffles or airbox with no problem, others are so finely tunes that it is impossible to run the bike without the restriction. the easy option would be to get a jet and air filter kit. then if you need to restrict air flow any (hopefully you wont need to) you could very slightly raise the inlet/outlet valve gaps to the maximum amount which will open the valves for a slightly shorter time. you could also restrict the exhaust by using large washers on the exhaust gaskets. similar to those used to restrict a bike.

It will kill the low end tq..you can do it itll be louder .. the air cleaner will allow the same air in ..if you would put on a freeer flowing a/c then jetting changes would be needed...

Sure it is. I've worked on plenty of bikes that have had them removed. The biggest complaint is that they need to have the carb rejetted because of a "flat spot" in the throttle response at about 55-65 mph. The problem is not their carb jetting. It is the lack of backpressure on the exhaust system causing the scavenging effect of the pipe to **** the fresh fuel air mixture out of the cylinder at that particular speed. Now, I am usually able to restore almost all the performance but installing a bolt with three nuts on the inside of the pipe. It restores just enough to get "most" of the power back without effecting the sound. Personally, Long shots are simply too loud for me. But, it's your bike and your ears. If you take the baffles out and don't like them, you can put them back in. Go for it.

Good Luck
Steve

This is typical of all Harley's that I know of. rejetting is not going to help. Since the engine is a single carburetor engine, if you rejet to lean the rear cylinder out, you also lean the front cylinder as well. If it's running correctly now, rejetting to lean the rear will cause the front cylinder to become too lean and overheat.

Since you're complaining of "soot" in the rear pipe, I'm assuming that there is no soot in the front pipe. Most Harleys do tend to have a little difference in the mixture between the two cylinders but this sounds like a bit too much difference to me. The reason for the soot is that the rear cylinder is running richer than the front. A reason for that could be a vacuum leak to the front cylinder causing that mixture to be lean and diverting the fuel to the rear cylinder resulting in a rich mixture in that cylinder. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake to heads junction, at the vacuum port off the carb.

Another suggestion is that usually drag pipes have a "flat spot" in their performance at around 55 to 65 mph due to a lack of backpressure, I'd install a bolt in the rear of the pipes. On most drag pipes, there is a hole to bolt the baffles into the end of the pipe with. Take a 1/4" X 1 1/4" stainless steel bolt and insert it into the hole. Up inside the pipe, put three stainless steel nuts on the bolt. Do this to each pipe. It does not effect the sound of the pipes but does provide just enough backpressure to almost completely eliminate the flat spot.

Good Luck
Steve

to start with you need to purchase a jet kit. it will come with instructions. the stock needle is non adjustable. also you need bigger jets.

Typicaly on bikes without a baffle that is removable by unbolting it you will have to use a hole saw that just fits inside the outer pipe and also on that is just larger than the small inner pipe. Start with the small one and then the big one. Thie will be cutting a ring out of it and allow you to twist and wiggle the inner pipe loose of it's tack welds to the second baffle further in. Doing just the outer one will produce enough noise for you and you may have to rejet your bike!

it is not hard to do but it would be best to get the drag pipes. there are a host of problems to think of though. you will need to rejet the carbs to accomodate the free up in back pressure. you will need the tourque slipins for the pipes. they will fit right into the pipes where they connect at the heads. the 1300 is going to be super loud without the baffels. like getting stopped by the law loud. it would be best to get a tuned drag setup from a dealer as to get the sound you are looking for as well as keep it below jonnie laws radar.

From what I can find online it seems to be performance pipes so I'd say boost. (Of course leaving the stock baffles in.) Stock VTX1300R is rated at 75 HP so you're probably looking at about 80-85 HP depending on how generously you rejet. If you've gotta pass emissions and don't wanna rejet before each time I'd say about 78-80 if you go full race to heck with fuel efficiency I want power you could probably pull 85 with the stock carb. Wrider,,,

just make sure you rejet the carb all bikes come from the factory on the lean side to meet epa standards etc. if you dont rejet you'll actually lose some power and have nasty backfires as well take the time to put a jet kit in i personally recommend dynojet easy to install and comes with suggestions for your application