2006 Yamaha Ybr 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Its a faulty ignition switch. There are two contacts that switch, one is on the power to starter, which is why it cranks, the other is power to the ignition/ECU. Fit a new ignition switch to cure the problem.

Hi les
Not much to start with here unfortunatly mate. A free flow muffler will help top end speed, change the factory airbox to a K&N style pod air filter, other than that, hugging the tank at top speed :) If you do change these parts, you may also need to increase the main jet size to richen up the mixture for better tuning of the motor with the better flowing parts. This bike has a top speed of 100kmp and produces 10 hp, so you may only expect to get at best less than 1 extra neddy, and perhaps another 5 km/hr.... I suggest upgrading to a bigger machine of you feel the need for speed :)
If its 125's you are into, test drive a Honda CBR 125R 6 speed fuel injected 13.4 horsepower, and good for 120km/hr
regards robotek

Check your carburetor or or throttle body for obstruction. Clean intake and reset idle. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lloyd_4256582adacd68ee

46- power supply to the FI system relay is not normal, probable cause of malfuction: 1. open circuit in wiring harness(red/blue line ) 2.malfunction in charging system

just check all ok ! then if yes put 12v to the horn directly , if you didnt jump then its siezed, replace !

Yamaha's are a bit cold blooded. Determine if it's compression, ignition or fuel. If your compression is good, next try a shot of starting fluid into the air cleaner, only use a bit and shoot some in while turning the starter or have someone shoot some in and kick it over immediately. If it starts or at least shows some life, your problem is in the fuel supply or carb. 60% of troubles I see is due to modern day crappy gas. Never use fuel with alcohol (oxygenated) and do not use gas more than 90 days old unless it was treated with a stabilizer. Next step is check your spark. I prefer using an old spark plug gapped wide, say .040, and clamp it with a hose clamp to a battery charger alligator clamp to ground to the engine. You should see a consistent blue spark. If you have electric start, spin the motor for say 30 seconds and feel the heavy positive that goes to the starter, or the heavy ground. If it feels warm and/or if your starter doesn't smoothly turn over, a bad starter can take power away from the ignition.

Staring problems can be a plague. First determine if it's ignition, air/fuel or compression. I always do a compression test, pressure isn't the issue, it's the difference between the cylinders, more than 10 pounds you have a problem. Next try a careful and reasonable shot of starting fluid, just a shot while spinning the engine into the air cleaner. If it begins to start immediately, you're problem is carburetor or fuel supply related (which with today's poor quality gas I see it in 60 percent of my work. Never use gas with alcohol "oxygenated", and don't leave it more than 90 days without adding a stabilizer). If it still shows no sign of life, pull your plugs and watch your spark. I prefer using an old spark plug with a wide gap like .040, clamped with a hose clamp to a battery charger clamp. Is the spark consistent, a nice blue arc? If so, one more somewhat common thing can happen. If your starter isn't in great shape it can pull too much amperage away from the ignition system. With plugs out does the engine spin freely and doesn't bind? Right after spinning the engine for about 30 seconds feel the large positive wire that runs to your starter (or your ground wire). Is it warm? If so perhaps your starter is in need of service.

power to starter button is not connected, make sure you have a live from ignition only when key is on and connect to starter switch

open visor fully then close 1 click back down this aligns the visor with the locateing clip,there is a tiny triangle shape spring loaded clip,pull this clip towards yourself this releases the visor,note can be fiddly

Synthetic oil is best but a bit more expensive. How ever mostly used on high perfomance engine which is not the case with a 125cc. If you don't want to spend too much money you can opt for semi synthetic oil. I hope this helps.

The flow valve control on the fuel line under the tank has a long end and a short end so to speak.

Long end dangling down = ON
Horizontal = OFF
Long end up = RESERVE

Hi,
The best oil for engine is REPSOL 5W40
Alex,
PS-Don't forget to vote me, thank you !

Please check the brake switch and relay for malfunction

If all other electricals works then just replace the horn (hurn?)

take a voltage meter on power wires for the horn with aligator clips and press the horn button to check for power. If not check fuse if it is good and you have no voltage probably be a short pinched wires but if you have power the horn has went bad

the fuel tank of a YBR uses vacuum, like DTs and WRsmake sure both hoses from the fule tank switch are operational as well as the by pass hose from the back of the fuel tank switch to the carburetor.

try 0.10 - 0.14 mm on inlet and outlet valves.

Did you try measuring voltage to Headlight switch? If that works fine check it at headlight connection.I suspect corrosion.

hi,for the cost of  new sprockets you are far better staying with the oem or equivalent after market ones,you will find that just about every model of bike has a different sprocket/chain setup,even similar looking bikes from the same manufacturer can be different, when matching up sprockets be very careful to make sure the offsets and spacings are identical because if they are not exactly right you will have all sorts of problems with chain and sprocket wear...cheers

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http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/caliperclean/index.html