This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....
Wrong reasons
1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time
2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.
3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)
4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work
5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged
SOLUTION
Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves
Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads
---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out
MAJOR SIMPTOMS
1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine
2 CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)
3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)
This must be done for the following
Yamaha YZF R6 - 24,000km
Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it's less 16,000ish)
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