2003 Yamaha V Star Custom - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Any multi grease will do. I'm a big fan of Moly-B (great high temp) and get mine from the local Honda dealer and use it whenEVER its needed. Bob If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_beef7390c57fac0d

Dead battery, fuses blown...?

Carb Jets are gummed up.

Known issue with the 650 vstars...no recall from yamaha though. The drive shaft splines are **** and they shear off on the shaft and the side that goes in the gearbox. Gearbox (rear drive unit) = $825 Shaft = 160. Have to buy the gearbox as a whole because yamaha is greedy.

Welcome to Fixya

Spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster at the ignition and start wiggling/jiggling, pushing in then pulling out, turning all the way to the parking lights or back to start.

Thank you for using Fixya! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b

Have you checked the fuel breather (expansion) line whether it is clogged by any means?

Might be crud in carbys if not injected. If carbed then undo the carb drains to see if fuel comes out.

STOP RIDDING THE BIKE NOW!!   Your problem IS your final drive...  I myself had the same problem on my 99' (11,000) 650 also.   The exact same sound happened before it failed.  I just came back from a bit of a ride and was going back on the road in about 30 minutes.  Instead of jumping on the freeway, thank God I took a side road because with no sign or warning it just locked up.  I was doing about 25 mph so with a lot of fish tailing and falling forward, I was able to keep the bike from going down.  Forget 60 or 70 on the freeway!!  There was a recall on this part because the manufacturer knew it had a flaw.  The joke is, they only set the years from 04 to 06...  Well mine, others that I know and ones I have now found out, range from 98 thru 06.  So that is where you are at, you need to replace the final drive, you maybe able to save your drive shaft though.  The internal gear drive which is pressed inside has begun to brake off little pieces... Soon one if not several pieces will work its way into the drive shaft end gear locking it up and its all over.  So do not chance it. 
That is what I believe is the problem...

that cap your talking about is a breather for your diff, you can get a new cap for it. the part your looking for is listed as number 24, its 25 bucks your local dealer can order it for you
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=398&B=23
good luck
Mark

Spray lock with wd40(inside) When you try the key, pull the handle bars hard in the direction that the wheel is turned. If you have the right keys, that should work. If your outside in the cold, it could be a frozen lock also, make sure the key goes in all the way. The wd40 (or any penetrating oil) should thaw it as well.

They are tamper resistant screws which take a special tool to remove. (keeps the average theif from unbolting your ignition switch and easily hot wiring the bike) however the bolts can be drilled out to gain access to the switch and then replaced with a standard type screw upon reinstallation, the choice is yours.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, on a 'no spark' concern, check for the presence of IGN+12 on the red/white wire going to the ignitor unit. Additionally, check for the +12 on the red/black wires going to the ignition coils. When cranking check for pulsating voltage on the gray and red wires coming from the ignitor unit going to the ignition coils.

Postback results of initial voltage tests.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

lift rear end ensure wheel is straight, chain will tick if not running true. next step remove chain and turn wheel by hand, listen for noise, wheel should spin freely when spun, like once or twice around before it stops. sometimes also ticking sound from drum brake is just a loose lever from the brake pedal to drum. pads will not tick. to be really safe, remove wheel and take apart.

adjust your metering pin in your carb. if that doesnt work you need to rejet it.

try new spark plugs

It sounds like they pinched the vent tube under the tank. There is a hose connected to the bottom of the tank that runs to the bottom of the bike. It allows air to enter the tank so you don't get vapor lock from the motor sucking fuel. You'll need to take the tank off and make sure the lines aren't pinching anywhere. I would call the mechanic and make him fix it and any damages to the tank.

sounds like the tumblers in the ignition have broke or come apart. the easiest way of fixing this would be to replace it or take the barrel to a good locksmith and have them rebuild it.

then the carb needs to be rebuilt it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel

sounds to me that when you put new pads in and the piston went back into calliper that grit and dirt/corrosion on the protruding part piston has caused the piston to jam in the caliper.

Since it isn't constant, I don't believe that it is a serious problem, it sounds like you have an electrical short on your pressure sensor wiring, I'd check to make sure its plugged in good, that the pins inside the plug aren't loose, and then look for places where the wiring may have been rubbed through (on the frame rail, hoses, etc.).