2012 Yamaha YZF R6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like the head gasket to me problem with all the r range of yamaha you have to drop the engine out to do anything really but before you do that run a compression check on all 4 cylinders if the compression is low on 1 or more cylinders it could be either your head warped (not so bad) or worst case a cracked liner (barrel) you can get the head gasket on ebay for around $40 but the main cost can depends on whether you have overheated the engine or not if it has overheated it can warp your head then the head has to be run to an engineering shop and have it skimmed if it is a cracked liner get a second hand engine but if you have not overheated the engine just replace the head gasket but personally i would still have the head checked out for cracks

Does it blow. lot of air out of the oil filler cap if you take it off while its ticking over ?.if so t will be a cracked liner it's very common and I had one like that a few weeks ago.The cylinder liners crack and the burning gases whizz past it into the crankcase and then it pumps the burnt gases up the engine breather hose not the author.bad design fault that usually happens between 20'000 and 30'000 miles.

Could be literally anything. I know the timing chain tensioner is very common to wear out on those motors and cause a winding/ ticking noise but thats on the right side. Ive replaced several on those myself over the years. You can try to tighten it manually the slightest bit. If the noise goes away replace the tensioner don’t continue to drive it like that.

Tengo una yamaha r6r trate de ponerle un switch y los cables hicieron corto y dej? marcar la luz neutral y las luces delanteras y la moto no enciende quem? la ECU compre otra pero hace lo mismo si me pueden ayudar Por favor gracias ,,,,,,,,I have a yamaha r6r try to put a switch and the cables made short and left to mark the neutral light and the front lights and the motorcycle does not light burned the ECU buy another but does the same if you can help me please

cam chain tensoner

http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1874 free manual for you!

Hi,you have done quight a few things to the bike wich aliminates a few of the problems,first since replaceing the burnt wire did you check that numer 4 cylinders plug was the write coulor,if its still sooty it could be down to a blocked air jet cousing a rich mixture,this sootyness on spark plug is normerly a sign of to rich mixsture or electical falt. as for the exourst if the bike was running ok when you first put the exourst on it should be ok,some exoursts do fit strait on and some need up jetting,I would ask where you bought it from. after saying all of this personaly I dont think it would effect just the 4 cylinder if I was you my first job would be to strip the carbs down and clean them up and go for another test drive,I hope this was some help as a ex-biker I understand how frustrating this is all the best hope you sort it from what you have already done I think you will get to the bottom of this and have it running properly in know time,again all the best.

Possibly the De-comp Valve in the engine is broke? Thats a trip to the Mechanic/Pull the Rocker Cover off for inspection. >:)

more explanation?? did you just change the oil? or have you ever added oil? are you checking on level ground? You said its not milky so I take it that it is water cooled so has it had any over heating?? have you flooded the motor trying to start it? smell the oil dip stick if it smells of gas the crank case has fuel in it and now shows its over filled. The only way to know for sure is to drain the oil call the dealer or look in your service manual how much oil it holds and replace the oil with the correct amount then run the bike and then check it. If the bike is running correct it should be fine. Always make sure you are on level ground when checking oil.

Sounds to me like a carb related problem try stripping them down maybe a sticky float chamber

This is usually a fuel problem. The bike is running either too lean or too rich. Check your spark plugs -- if there's black carbon on the tips, the fuel/air mixture is too rich and needs to be leaned out. If they're white, it's running too lean. If they're tan, there's some other issue. Clean or replace the air filters and check your inline fuel filter (if you have one) to make sure there are not clogs or obstructions.

Clymer Manuals Yamaha YZF R6 Manual Maintenance Troubleshooting Repair... may lead somewhere

vacuum lines to tank may be located on wrong pipes

If the engine runs fine at mid-range and upper rpm levels, and barring a lot of aftermarket bolt-ons (new pipes, air pods, etc.) I would perform some simple solutions first. Fire up the bike and run the engine for just 3-4 seconds, then shut it off. Feel each one of the exhaust pipes. All of them should be equally warm. If not, you have isolated the problem to an individual cylinder. This misfiring of a single cylinder can be due to a plugged jet, a bad spark plug, or a bad coil. If the bike has been parked for a while, you can easily add a bottle of Sea Foam (about $9 at any automotive store) or equivalent to the gas tank and see if that helps. Sometimes it takes a few runs to clean out the very small idle jets. Secondly, pull the spark plugs and read them. This is a bit involved on the R6 as you will need to pull the tank and the heat shield beneath it. Be very careful as this bike has coil-over plugs. If your exhaust pipe test revealed one cylinder not firing well, choose that one first and see if the plug is wet, blackened or excessively worn. Replace as necessary. There is a specific test for the coil which I won't go into here, but these bikes generate a lot of heat and burying the coil into the head really stresses them. Finally, join the R6 forum and see what others have done to correct this. It is a common problem with this bike. My identical bike to yours had a bad coil. Yamaha R6 forum is community for R6 enthusiasts covering news and...

bad connection on the starter

I recommend u to hv a scan test first,because u need to find out that the transmission problem or trans controllers problem.

Battery is bad. Rapid clicking of starter selenoid is because battery does not have enough to hold spring down in selenoid when it sees the starter load. Battery only has a surface charge (nothing of power). Try a new battery or a jump. Should have lights first, then horn, then starter. If no lights, check all fuses.

check ignition switch supplies with multi metre

It is under the Seat .

year model can be seen on brake hoses, cc are normally on the casing of the engine