Starter Would not start, found blown starter fuse- replaced soon as turned ignition, heard starter click and fuse blew. Is it possible short in solenoid/starter?

head lamps work, jumper cable jump starts fail>?y/n?
ah a simple failure, not dead engine complex.
this has only 6 causes, of no crank. using voltmeter makes the job near childs play. if you do that, guessing will be $$$$$$$
A/T trans or M/T auto or stick , not the same.
you shorted out wires under the dash with that key act.
that blows fuse if lucky or blows up very very expensive electronics. nobody here knows what you blew out.
only using meter finds this. a voltmeter (DMM)
all one word left off, I broke off the metal key inside the ignition switch so then hot wired the switch
bingo now I under stand what you did.
a new ignition switch is best.
I think there is no IMMO here
I found a free service manual (real) online
let me see what fuse you blew up.
if you short out the key switch or starter relay
yes the fuse link blows. for sure.
fuse 19 is the starter fuse, not blown.
volt meter check IGN switch has power white wire is power in,if dead, link is blown
turn to ST start, and ST pin goes to 12vdc
as does starter out relay pin B/Y to starter

now the free manual
https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-nissan-300zx-1993-service-manual/


now you have full schematics in the EL chapter,.
see 1 below in part.



start path fuse battery must be good.

Those vehicles use an integrated power management module that holds that relay and several other parts and they can go bad. You have to replace the whole thing.

You have a Chrysler , dodge , or Plymouth ? ASD Fuse supplies power to ASD relay ,if you have a Dodge , Chrysler or Plymouth vehicle . You have a short to ground , videos on you tube , how to find a electrical short ! ASD - auto shut down , this powers Ignition system , fuel injectors , O2 sensors . A short in any one of these systems will blow the fuse . O2 sensor wires get melted on exhaust pipes an manifolds ! That is if you have one of these make vehicles !

There is a dead short to ground on that circuit . There are videos on youtube showing how to find an fix a short . Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing ? How to find automotive electrical shorts Look at the wiring harness under the hood for rubbed through wire's , harness going to the PCM , also find out what if any thing else is powered by that fuse . Which PCM fuse ? There are a few PCM 1 , PCM B , etc...

PCM 1 Fuse
15A
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid, Fuel Composition Sensor, Secondary Fuel Pump Relay

PCM B Fuse
20A
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Any one of these fuse will cause the engine not to crank . The PCM energizes the starter relay which supply's power to the starter .

This happens all too often on the Chryslers, the starter fuse blowing. The cause in most cases is the starter solenoid. I recommend replacing the starter and the solenoid when this happens, to keep from having to do it again a few months later, I hope this helps.

You may be correct about the fusible link. Replacing a blown fuse without finding and repairing the reason it blew only leads to more problems and possible severe damage to wiring harnesses. Fuses are NEVER the CAUSE of an electrical problem. Blown fuses are ALWAYS the RESULT of an electrical problem. I would recommend taking the vehicle to someone who has access to the wiring diagrams and the proper equipment necessary to repair your electrical system. A blown 60 Amp fuse is nothing to play with. That fuse gave up it's life to stop your vehicle from burning to the ground. Please don't make it die in vain...car fires are never pretty!

The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.

My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:

Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!

I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???

I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!

The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)

I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)

Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.

At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.

Recheck the wires coming from the starter, for rub-thru, and grounding. Commonly a wire gets pinched between the starter and the starter housing. Wiring touching or near the exhaust manifold can melt, check there too :)

If the fuse blew at once, then you have an electrical short. Try disconnecting power lead to start, cover with insulating tape/electrical tape, put new fuse in place, and attempt to "start". if fuse does not blow then the starter motor has an internal fault, replace starter and enjoy. Keep me posted as you perform these tests.

It could be a bad starter.
And a dead short within the starter would cause the fuses to blow as you mentioned.

I would pull the starter off, and take it into a local parts store to be tested.
If it does pass, you have taken that part of the problem out of the equation, and can begin looking for other causes.