The car is drawing a lot of current. it is a lexus 470 suv. it kills the new battery in less than 3 hours. it will start with jumper cables, model 2000

You say 'Crank, no start', but you also say 'it will not turn over'. They are the same thing, if it cranks, it is turning over, but not 'firing' or 'starting'.

After you disconnected the battery, did you reset the Security System and Engine Immobilizer? You know it has one, that flashing light on the dash?

Some ideas here

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Lexus+LX+470.+Crank+but+no+start

Anti-theft Reset

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+lexus+lx+470+reset+security+system

If that doesn't fix it, an auto electrician with a $5,000 professional grade Autel scan tool will be able to diagnose the entire car in 30 minutes. A $130 scan tool is garbage.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me

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Weak connection between battery post and cable. Since the jumper cables bypass this, by clipping on the cable ends, the car will start with a jump. Takes less current to start a warm car than a cold one, hence it starts all day. I would look closely at the cable ends where they attach to the battery. Clean them until spotless with baking soda and water and terminal cleaner brush.

If this does not solve the problem, clean the chassis ground on the other end of the - battery cable and + cable where it connects to the starter.

Check your alternator output also. Battery should not be defective in 2 years.

Possible current drain when key is off. Put a voltmeter inline with the battery and check for draw. If you get more than a few millivolts something is on and drawing current. Glove box light maybe? Check by pulling fuses until you find the source of the draw.

Instead of current check, try to see what the alternator is putting out in volts at idle, then bump it up to about 2000 RPM. It should hover right around 14V. Anything less than 13 and you got a bad alternator.
Also you can do a draw test to see if anythign is pulling your battery down when you are not driving. You take your meter and put it in amps mode and put one lead on the battery neg, and the other on the disconnected neg cable (use your meter to bridge the cable to the battery) and see what you read for amps. Anything more than a few milliamps, and I would start pulling fuses till it goes away. Once it goes away.. you found the circuit that is causing the draw.

If you have a Battery charger, disconnect the Neg cable of the battery from the SUV and charge the battery overnight. When you get the SUV running, take it to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan. Also ask them to do a Starter draw test and to analyze your charging system and Battery.

The Ford antitheft systems are really sensitive to low power. While your vehicle has a 12 Volt system, a fully charged battery will have 13.2 to 13.4 Volts in it. A drop of 10% in battery performance will drop the charge to 12 Volts or less. This is enough to make the anti-theft lock out the Starter.

I have seen Charging systems automatically turn off once a jumper cable is removed. You can see it on the dash gauges where the Alternator is working and remove the jumper and after several minutes a perfectly good Alternator stops working while you are driving. Then install a battery with a 13.2 Volt charge and everything starts working perfectly from then on.

I mention this because you may have felt the Battery was charging after the jump and really it was not. You have to watch the Volt meter in your dash while you drive, there will be no warning lights.

I hope I have been helpful with my solution and that you will get a scan on your SUV.

Try turning your air system off and jack up the SUV. move the control arms around, then up and down the best you can. Let the SUV down on the ground, take a look to see how level the SUV sits . It should reset itself when you turn back on the air supply system. If not, you may have punctured or damaged one or both of the airbags if you lifted the SUV without turning the air off first. You may get lucky, but remember to shut off air supply if you have bags for suspension in the furture.

Check for consumers staying on such as interior lights , radio etc.. To check for current draw, you need an AMP meter. remove the negative battery terminal. Connect one amp meter lead to the battery negative terminal and the other to the earth cable. Hold the cable against the battery negative cable, close all doors and press bonnet switch to closed position. Activate the alarm and wait for it to arm. Once it has armed itself, separate the earth cable from the battery terminal keeping the amp meter connected. read the current draw. Should be less then 100 milli amps. Usually +- 40ma. To check which circuit has current draw remove one fuse at a time and check if current draw drops. A drop in current draw will indicate that the problem is on that fuses circuit. Also check alternator charge rate. To check this hold a volt meter across the battery terminals. with engine off, should get battery voltage. Start the vehicle, battery voltage should rise to 13 -14v and maintain this voltage with the headlights on. The battery itself could be faulty, you would need to do a load test on the battery. Load tester needed to do this.

to find the draw Switch off all electrical loads such as lights, radio equipment, auxiliary equipment and make sure the vehicle ignition system is turned off. Remove all ground paths from the negative battery terminals. Connect a jumper lead from theground cable to the negative battery terminalYou are now feeding the electrical current requirements of the entire vehicle through the jumper lead. Do not activate any other electrical equipment while the jumper lead is supplying the vehicle current. Wait five minutes to allow all electrical devices to shut down and go to standby mode. While waiting for the vehicle electronics to go to sleep, set up a digital ammeter, such as the Fluke 88to read amps (automatic scale) and make sure the test leads are plugged in to the correct connectors to read amps (COM and A). Connect the COM ammeter lead to the negative battery stud and the positive lead to the connected ground cable After five minutes with the jumper and the ammeter connected in parallel, remove the jumper lead from the three connected cables to the negative battery stud as shown in Figure 3. The vehicles entire current requirements (parasitic load) will now be going through the ammeter. Read the current flow in milliamps. Remember that 1000 milliamps is equal to 1 amp. If the readout has ma after the reading youre measuring milliamps, if the readout has A after the reading youre measuring amps. If at any time during this process the current flow is interrupted (a connector falls off) you must begin again with the jumper connected for five minutes before attempting to remove it leaving the ammeter passing all current and measuring the parasitic load, Under normal conditions, while parked, a vehicle equipped with a standard electronics package should be drawing less than 50 milliamps. If the parasitic load is more than this the vehicles battery storage life will be shortened. If excessive current draw is observed, remove the fuses one at a time until a significant current drop is noted. Do not pull and reinstall the fuses as this may wake up some circuits and cause excessive surge current through the meter. Make note of fuse locations as they are pulled so they can be reinstalled in the proper fuse panel location when testing is complete. When high current draw devices are isolated consider relocating their power feed from a power source that is inactive when the ignition switch is turned to OFF. Sorry So long but hope it helps

I hesitate to suggest this, but it does work well. After you start the engine, and while running. Unhook the negative battery cable. If the vehicle stalls, you have a bad alternator.

change the battery, than try if not, buy a new car

could be a fault in your alarm