How do I get the pulley off that is in the way of ONE of the water pump bolts. The pulley has a allen wrench fastener in the center. I tried turning it left and right and it will not budge. There are holes in the pulley to get at bolts behind it. This is NOT the water pump pulley. It is behind and below the water pump. If I go through the pulley it appears there are two bolts that will remove a component but then will it leak?

I strongly recommend you consult a repair manual for the timing belt install procedure. Depending if you have a hydraulic or mechanical tensioner for the belt, the procedure is different. If you register for free at www.autozone.com, listing make, model and year, you could find the procedure under "repair guides".
Here is a shortened guide: Align notch of crank sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off 3 notches or teeth, (counterclockwise to back off).
Align notch of cam sprocket with mark on the inner belt cover-it is at top of engine-notch on cam will be almost straight up.
Move crankshaft to 1/2 notch before arrow on oil pump housing. Install belt starting at crankshaft, then around water pump, then around camshaft sprocket last.
Move crank to TDC (notch right with arrow) to take up belt slack.
Reinstall tensioner, and tighten fasteners as follows: Mechanical tensioner-250 inch pounds.
Hydraulic tensioner assembly pulley bolt-50 foot pounds. Hydraulic tensioner assembly and pivot bracket bolt-23 foot pounds.
Remove tensioner plunger pins-for either mechanical or hydraulic tensioners. Tension is correct when plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.
Rotate crankshaft at least two revolutions, and recheck timing marks.
Reinstall timing belt cover, engine mount bracket, engine mount, and crankshaft damper. Tighten crank damper pulley bolt to 105 foot pounds.
Reinstall drive belts and accessories.

I know the info on the tensioner is confusing: why you need to consult a repair manual or register at autozone. You have to compress the plunger on the hydraulic tensioner after removing it and insert a pin (a very small Allen wrench works-5/64 inch Allen wrench). If a mechanical tensioner, you will need an 8 mm Allen wrench to rotate the tensioner counter clockwise (this is before or after removed from engine), the use a 1/8 inch or 3 mm Allen wrench to insert into plunger hole, to hold the tensioner retracted until installed. See what I mean? Post back if unclear...or just find the repair procedure. Sorry, no diagrams available for me. I'm too old and crochety-lol.

Here are the written instructions, i do not have the pictures, it is a very good set of instructions and clearly written.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flat-head screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket pry-bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Here are the full instructions and tools needed.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

you need a belt rope wrench to hod the pulley, however you can remove it without taking the pulley off and put it in a vice to get it off. you will need a 3/8 ths drive ratchet to get it out with and tap it with a hammer also use a torch to heat up the outer edge to get the lock tight break loose.

The text below is from the GM Service manual 4.3L V6 Engine
Water Pump Replacement (4.3L)
Removal Procedure
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.

Tools Required
J 46406 Fan Clutch Wrench

Removal Procedure
Remove the upper fan shroud.
Remove the fan clutch from the water pump in a counterclockwise direction using the J 46406 .
Remove the fan clutch assembly.
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement Remove the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the radiator outlet hose clamp from the water pump.
Remove radiator outlet hose from the water pump.
Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump from the engine.
Remove the water pump gaskets.
Clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces.
Installation Procedure
Install the water pump gaskets.
Install the water pump to the engine.
Apply a sealer (GM P/N 12346004) to the bolt threads.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the water pump mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the mounting bolts to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).
Install the radiator outlet hose to the water pump.
Install the water pump pulley.
Install the water pump pulley bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 4.3L.
Install the fan clutch assembly.
Fill the radiator cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Inspect the cooling system for leaks.

Are you talking about the Power steering pulley? Unbolt the pump, It is held on by two bolts and they are accessed thru the holes in the pulley. Just unbolt the pump and move it out of the way. Leave all the lines attached to it.

two bolts hold the power steering bracket on and come off easily. Then you can remove your bolt

I'm not so certain you need to take that pulley off to get the water pump off. All the bolts should be accessible. Aren't there holes in the pulley that line up with any hidden bolts in behind? GM is well known for doing that. Rotate the pulley until you can sneak a socket through the pulley hole and get onto the bolts you need. (Unless this is a different design).