2014 Toyota Sienna Transmission filter and oil change

2014 Toyota Transmission Filter and oil change - sealed transmission (in your driveway)
Tools:
Jack and Jack stand
22 MM socket 3/8 or ½ inch.
10MM ¼ inch socket
10MM ¼ inch short socket ½ inch in length max
Long-nosed pliers
Lug Wrench
1 mason jar or measured container to measure old fluid
6 feet of ¾ inch clear tubing or transmission oil pump
Transmission fluid funnel
Shop light
Gasket scraper
Something to catch oil in
2 feet os thin wire, or string
Materials
Tape: Duct tape or masking tape
4 quarts Valvoline Max Life ATF Full Synthetic (Back label shows recommended for Toyota WS)
1 Duralast Transmission filter kit (TF637 in this case)
1 sheet 120 grit sandpaper

Note: This filter/oil change is being done while the vehicle transmission is the same temperature as the new fluid. Both have been sitting outside all night. Also, make an effort to capture all the fluid so it can be measured later.

Steps:

1. Jack drive side front wheel and secure with jack stand. Make sure the vehicle is high enough to gain access and remove the transmission oil pan. Do not remove the wheel at this time. Pop hood.
2. Place shop light so bolts on driver's side transmission pan are visible.
3. There are 18 bolts. 16 are easy to remove. 2 are not = Driver's side front and rear corners.
4. Locate and try to break loose the two bolts blocked by the frame. Use the short 10MM socket.
5. The socket may not seat entirely on the bolts, so press upward while loosening.
6. Once the bolts are broken loose, you cannot remove the bolts with the socket - the socket will lodge against the frame. Instead, use the long-nosed pliers to gently nudge the bolts loose. The bolts have a hex ridge running around the top and you can pinch in the corners of each hex and twist out. This is tedious, but works.
7. If you get the two bolts out - proceed. If not, put it back best you can and get to a shop.
8. Go ahead and take the wheel off.
9. There is a plastic shroud to the front left- take out the 2 10MM bolts leaving one push fastener in place and just push to the side. This should expose the 22MM inlet for transmission fluid. Leave in place until ready for fluid
10. Going back to the transmission plan. You can take out the drain plug and the overflow tube using a 5mm hex tool and drain the pan that way, but I just took off the pan being careful to loosen the bolts on the driver's side of the pan - those bolts between the two taken out previously. Place the oil catcher as best you can toward the rear / passenger side of the transmission and start removing bolts from the rear moving around the pan counter clockwise to the front and the front corner bolt that was removed in step 6. The goal is to let the pan drop to the rear/passenger side while still being loosely held in place by those bolts that were loosened earlier.
11. Remove the remaining bolts; remove pan and gently peel old gasket off the transmission body; While transmission is draining: clean and remove an remaining gasket material from pan.
12. Remove filter - two bolts. Shake oil out of filter into your container so you can take an accurate measurement. Note: There is a rubber ring that goes around the inlet tube inserted into the valve body that is part of the filter. Your kit may have one included, or it may not. Check to make sure the rubber ring is not left in the valve body. The rubber ring could be beveled, so take note of how it comes out. Before installing the new filter, make sure this rubber ring (kind of an "O" ring) is installed on the inlet tube of the filter - NOT in the valve body. OK, don't try and pound the inlet tube into the valve body. Instead, Align the filter and Insert the two bolts and alternately tighten each end a few turns at a time. The inlet tube should gently guide itself into the valve body - tighten 6- 12 ft lbs.
13. Scrape off excess gasket material from transmission body. Sand where needed.
14. Go to your clean pan; place gasket around the pan; insert bolts through the pan, into and through the gasket. All Bolts should be hanging from the pan and held in place by the gasket.
15. Under the car, angle the pan up under the driver side frame and level it up - being careful not to knock any bolts out of the gasket.
16. Line the bolts up with the holes and get the bolts started for the 16 easy bolts.
17. Use the long nosed pliers to get the 2 tough ones started to the point where the short socket will fit on it. Now, just alternately tighten all 18 bolts. Torque 3- 6 Ft Lbs. I used 6 ft lbs.
18. Once the pan is secure, take the 22MM bolt off the transmission; insert the ¾ inch tubing into the hole - making sure the tube is in far enough to be secure while not too far in as to block the flow of new oil; wrap the tubing and lip where the bolts goes with tape so it doesn't slip out easily. Route the tubing up and around the fender so you have the end of the tubing up by the hood flange. Insert the transmission funnel into the tubing and attach the funnel to the flange with some wire or string.
19. Using the mason jar, measure the fluid you caught. I would measure 24 oz and then discard and so forth. Write this down on paper. And estimate any spillage as best possible
20. Once you have a figure of what came out of the transmission, figure a way to measure the same amount to put back in the transmission. I cleaned and used the same mason jar for the new oil, I did not estimate based on the container markings.
21. Gently pour the fluid into the funnel - making sure the fluid does not over flow out the top of the funnel and making sure you didn't push the tubing too far into the transmission causing it to back up. Take your time. Make sure the oil is flowing into the transmission. This is why clear tubing is preferred.
22. Once all fluid is in, replace the 22MM bolt into the transmission; secure the plastic shroud - 2 10MM bolts.
23. Put wheel back on; raise jack; remove jack stands; remove jack.
24. Start car in park - check for any leaks
25. No leaks; with foot on brake; run gear shift through Park; drive; neutral; and reverse 3-5 times. Making sure transmission engages and disengages.