SOURCE: Kia Sorento misfiring after replacing timing belt and (6) plugs
Tell the garage to install the same spark plugs, as the ones KIA uses. I've seen many cars have missfiring because the wrong spark plugs are used. The worst plugs for causing missfiring are Bosch Platinum. Have the garage change the oil too, as it's now contaminated by unburnt petrol.
SOURCE: ENGINE LIGHT FLASHING...CAR MISFIRING...INSTALLED
the flashing light indicates to the driver that the engine is under severe misfire wich could lead to damaging the cat. Have the codes pulled by autozone or advance they do it for free. Then start there but it sounds like it could be your oxygen sensor
SOURCE: Number one cylinder misfiring.
Check and replace your timing belt, although it is probably not the culprit, I have seen a tooth missing from a worn timing belt cause misfiring.
It is probably the Crankshaft Position Sensor, or the Camshaft Position Sensor causing the misfire.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
SOURCE: Would A 2006 Chevy Equinox with just 40,000 miles
Possibly. It depends on what the climate is like where you live. For instance, if you live in an area where the summer climate hits 110 (i.e. Phoenix), then your vehicle will need to be serviced more regularly. Best recommendation, take your vehicle to AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reillys, etc. for a free diagnostic check.
SOURCE: 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8L
Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.
First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)
So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.
Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.
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