Ignition problems got power but won't start lights and everything comes on but no power to starter

Is power getting to the ignition switch? Do the warning lights and gauges come on when key is turned to on? That would verify power in and power out at the switch. Then you would need to check the start circuit. A single start wire comes out of the switch, the signal travels through the neutral safety switch and a starter relay and then to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Solenoid closes contacts so battery power can operate the starter. If new starter doesn't work, power has been lost between the ignition switch and the starter.
If no power to the ignition switch check maxi fuses, all fuses in fact, and possibly a fusible link from the battery that may be the feed for the switch.

No, it isn't an ignition issue.

Check power to the starter motor solenoid.
If this is getting power when cranking, then the issue is with the starter motor solenoid or starter motor. Replace.

many things will cause no start problems could have faulty ignition switch.use test light see if power going to starter if not check ignition fuse to starter.if power going to starter, more likely starter solenoid or starter faulty.if ignition fuse okay and starter and solenoid okay still no start problem could be in the ignition switch or inhibitor switch faulty.code scan for faulty theft security system which will also cause no start conditions.

check at the starter for a fuseable link wire as well as at your fuse panel for a possible blown fuse or a bad relay

When you do turn the ignition switch if you do not hear anything is possible the starter motor solenoid.,check also the battery terminals for miss contact,remove and brush the dirt between , or bad earth.

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

need more info, do you have lights? radio work? if everything seems to be functioning but nothing happens when you turn the key, i would say its your VATS system, very easy to bypass, just look it up on TGO

well if you have a dvom/voltmeter check the power at the starter terminals. the main terminal should have power all the time the key wire should have power only when the key is turned to crank engine. if you have power at both then i would start looking at grounds

If you have power it would not be an alternator problem unless its not charging the battery and the battery is dead or too weak to turn the starter.
You may have a VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) Pass KeyII at fault. Is there a Security light on in the dash?
You may want to start by testing the small wire (S Terminal) at the starter. Hook a test light to it and turn the key to start. If the light comes on then its a bad starter/solenoid. No light then its the ignition switch, any anti theft device (if you have an alarm that disables or is in any way connected to the starting system i.e. remote start, that could very well be the problem) or wiring.

Sounds like bad ignition switch.Check battery voltage it should be 12-12.6 volts.If its good check for power at starter on the switch side of solenoid if you don't have power its the switch if you do have power and it won't crank its the starter thats bad.