Removing the fender was wondering if hood hing thats bolted to fender is also spot wekded it appears to be was wondering just to remove fender it would be easier to remove the hood itself from the 1 hinge correct

It is really a job for a body shop. Thy can also stretch out bent metal.


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Remove marker lamp and headlamp assemblies.

Remove bolts behind lamp assemblies holding fender to frame of car.
Remove bolts along seam hidden under hood.
remove left front wheel and splash guard.
remove more bolts in wheel well
open left door, remove bolts in sill by door hinges.
Take lots of wires and stuff loose from fender.
Tada, fender is removed.

There are four bolts and the hood hinge to remove on top. Remove the tire, remove the inner fender cover( seven or eight screws). There are two bolts to remove the fender from the front bumper cover. And one bolt to remove from inside the door( open the door, remove the cloth, the bolt is close to the top). Replace in reverse.

You can't take the grill off because you have to open the hood to get the grill off.Here is a diagram of the latch and cable routing you will have to try to get to the cable from under the car and pull it to open it or use a long screwdriver to unla

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a typical hood mounting

1. Open the hood and support it securely. Mark the hinge location on the hood. If so equipped, disconnect the windshield washer hose from its retaining clamp.

Fig. Fig. 2: Matchmark the position of the hood before removing the retaining bolts

Fig. Fig. 3: Have an assistant secure the hood, then remove the retaining bolts

1. Have an assistant hold the hood in the up position. Remove the hood support and remove the hinge-to-hood bolts.
2. Remove the hood from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Position the hood against the hinges, using the marks made previously on the hood to help with alignment.
2. Have an assistant hold the hood. Install the hinge-to-hood bolts, the hood support and the hood support bolts. If so equipped, install the washer hose.
3. Tighten all bolts securely and check the hood for proper alignment.

ALIGNMENT

Hood
The hood is provided with up-and-down and side-to-side adjustments.

1. To make the side-to-side adjustments:
   1. Loosen the hood attaching bolts and move the hood to the proper position, then tighten the attaching bolts.
   2. Repeat the procedure if necessary.
   
   
2. To make the up-and-down adjustment (at the rear of the hood):
   1. Loosen the hood stop bolts.
   2. Using a screwdriver, turn the hood stop screws clockwise to lower the hood and counterclockwise to raise the hood. Hood is at the proper height when it is flush with the fenders.
   3. Tighten the hood stop bolts.
   4. Repeat the procedure if necessary.
   
   

Hood Latch
See Figure 4

1. Make sure that the hood is properly aligned.
2. Remove the hood latch attaching bolts. Move them as necessary to align with the latch dowel. Tighten the attaching bolts.
3. Remove the locknut on the hood latch dowel, and turn the dowel clockwise to pull the hood tighter and counterclockwise to loosen it. The proper height is when the top of the hood is flush with the fenders.
4. Tighten the dowel locknut after the proper adjustment has been obtained.

Fig. Fig. 4: The hood latch can be adjusted in the directions tch it through the grill.

It's not a lot of fun and you will need a helper. You need to remove the hood first. Before you remove it from the hinges,make reference marks so your can re-align it when you put it back on. With that off, remove the grill and the chrome trim around the grill opening. The piece of trim that is mounted on the fender may come off easier when the fender is off the truck, no big deal, just remember to put it back on before you put the fender on. The chrome trim is fastened on with nuts that are accessable with the grill out of the way. The metal strip under the lower grill trim is screwed into the fender so go under the truck and remove them. You don't necessarily have to remove the whole strip but you might find it easier if you do. If you are doing the battery side remove the battery bracket. If you are not going to replace the inner fender remove the bolts around the wheel opening, this thread into clips that will likely break as you do this. No problem there are readily available at any auto parts store. If you are replacing the inner fender leave them attached and remove the bolt inside the wheel well at the firewall. There are 5 bolts at the front of the fender that have to come off first. 2 on the top of the rad support, 1 partway down the rad support and 2 at the bottom of it. One of these goes down and one goes sideways. When removing these bolts watch for shims. Don't loose them, they will be needed when you put the new fender on. Once you have these bolts out go the back of the fender. There will be 1,maybe 2 at the bottom of the fender next to the door. These will be shimmed. Finally remove the 2 bolts at the top of the fender at the firewall, more shims.
With the fender off put the hood hinge on the new fender snugly but not tight, you may have to adjust it later. If you are replacing the inner fender too put it on now. Put the fender in place and re-attach the bolts in the reverse of how you took them out. Don't tighten any of them until you have all of them in place. Put your shims back in starting at the windshield. You may have to mix and match, every fender is different. Get you body lines from the doorpost and work to the front of the truck. If you need more shims, they are available at the autoparts store as well. When the fender lines look good snug the bolts but don't tighten. Put the hood on and close it. At this point you mat have to adjust it as well. There is adjustment in the hinges but it's a trial and error deal. Adjust, close, adjust again. You may have to go back and readjust the fender to get all your lines working. When you are happy with your body lines tighten all your bolts, including the pain in the **** on the side and bottom of the rad support.
Hope this helps.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the hood to replace the hood hinges. Hood hinges can be replaced one at a time.

1. Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the position of the hood hinge on the hood and body for the hinge being serviced.
2. Support the hood and disconnect the support cylinder from the hood.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the hood hinge to the hood .
4. Remove the bolt that secures the hood hinge to the front fender.

1.- remove the hhod and hood hinge
2.- loosen the wheel lug nuts , raise the vehicle and securely support on jackstands, apply parking brake .remove the fron wheel.
3.-Disconet the antenna( fender only)
4.- Remove fender mounting bolts at fron close to the turn signal.
5.-remove the top view bolts at the engine comparment.
6.-Detach the fender is a good idea to have an assistant to prevent damage to the parts of the body
7.- Installation is the reverse of removal.

NO 2 BOLTS ON TOP OF FENDER UNDER HOOD 1 BOLT BEHIND PLASTIC TRIM BY MIRROR PULL THIS PIECE BACK TOWARDS MIRROR OR IT WILL BREAK TABS OFF 1 BOLT UNDER ROCKER TRIM 1 SCREW INTO ROCKER AND 1 SCREW BEHIND PLASTIC SHROUD GOING INTO BUMPER FROM UNDER NEATH PULL BUMPER BACK SLIGHTY AND YOU WILL SEE A WHITE PLASTIC CLIP PULL BACK AND BEHIND THIS IS A BOLT REMOVE HEADLIGHT CLIP FROM FENDER AND LOSEN BOLT BY HINGE NOW FENDER SHOULD COME RIGHT OFF BOOK IS 2 HOURS TAKES 1 HOUR TO REMOVE BUT GOES ON IN ABOUT 30 NINUTES

you first have to take off the hood (2 bolts on each side where the hood meets the hinge) then take off the hood hinges (3 or 4 bolts on each side on top of fender) and after all that your hood hinges should be off. on each end there will be a metal retainer that holds the strut on the hinge, carefully pry these off with a screwdriver and install new struts, bolt the hinges back on and finally the hood

(have a friend help you lift the hood off)

The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort.