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david millar Posted on Jan 28, 2018
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A drawn out squirmy noise in the head only when you rev

Engine bottom end was overhauled, then head was overhauled and bearings, piston pins were free of wear,rocker rack was overhauled and all valvesseated and properly fixed, and yet when you start the engine sounds fine, but when you rev there is a prolonged squirmy noise coming from the head area.

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Joseph Wright

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  • Nissan Master 1,729 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 28, 2018
Joseph Wright
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Joined: Aug 05, 2012
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Is there a chain drive to overhead cams? If so, maybe the tensioner, chain or gears are bad.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 143 Answers
  • Posted on May 14, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 NISSAN ALTIMA FRONT END NOISE / RT SIDE GRINDING NOISE,.... BEARING?

CV joint has gotten debris and moisture inside. The CV boot is bad and not protecting the joint. Now its metal on metal grinding. This happens when turning as there is more pressure on the joint. Please fix this ASAP as it can be dangerous to drive on a bad CV joint. While I have seen people drive with a bad CV joint for over 4k miles, it is NOT recommended!

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John Weathers

  • 409 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2009

SOURCE: Belt whines and sounds like a bearing going,WD40 takes noise away

I'd remove the belt/belts and check all the idler pulleys. Did you retighten the belts or is it a single serpentine belt with an auto tensioner?

Anonymous

  • 41 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2011

SOURCE: '98 Nissan Sentra GA13 guzzles

I encountered a very similar problem before. Have your carburetor redone. I also spent a lot trying to fix that kind of issue before with the car I'm using (also with ga13ds). I overhauled the carburetor 2 times using repair kits but there are still the same issues and at one time things became even worse. Bring it to a mechanic who works with nissan (not necessarily in the service center) and/or is specializing in carburetors because there are a lot of things that may go wrong inside a carburetor. I brought mine to an expert in Evangelista Makati, Philippines ( well I guess your from the Philippines because I could not find ga13ds from other countries unless I'm wrong) and it only took about two hours without even buying parts, just some elbow grease, smashing, scratching, and some salvaged parts from other carbs- the whole process cost me Php1,800 plus travel expenses. Also, buy a good air filter and make sure that your air cleaner assembly is working properly, these kind o issues are caused by accumulated dirt in the system and it slowly destroys the carb. After having all the repairs done, invest in one aerosol can of carb cleaner and use it on your carb maybe about once a month (I do it that often) it keeps performance as close to optimum as possible and prolongs the carb so it will take a while before it needs to be overhauled again. The MPG however, may not be the same as before. Since it's an old engine and engines tend to consume more fuel proportional to its age (according to my mech engineering undergrad brother), the MPG may be more by a bit and it is also affected by the engine overhaul, because of a lot machining and making things larger by a bit, the engine will increase cc (I think) by an amount that will also affect your MPG.
There..I hope this helps..Good luck! I love these old carbureted engines, they're so simple to tinker with.
If you're from the Philippines, the man to look for is Mang Vising in Bgy. Bankal, Makati. Just near the INC church there in Evangelsita. Coming from EDSA, turn right just before you reach the INC church and just ask around.
God bless!

montehammons

  • 5531 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 27, 2011

SOURCE: suspension 1986 nissan 300z non-turbo. front end

How are the motor mounts? After all that work, you are down to only a few things it could be. good luck. Look for any bent suspension pieces. Does it have a sway bar up front? Check linkage and bushings on that.

narlock_ald

Al Narlock

  • 81 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2012

SOURCE: 1996 nissan pathfinder rumbling 'rotational' noise from front

put the front up on jack stands and start inspecting push, pull, tug, ****, kick whatever you have to do to find out if anything is loose under the front end if you can't find anything put the whole thing up on jack stands then with the help of a trusted budy have him/her start and put the vehical in gear let idle see if you can hear the rumlbing. then very carfully slide under the vehical and listen. use a vaccum hose as a mechanics stethoscope, or use a long handle screwdriver or prybar to put on suspect bearing housing and listen for the grinding noises.

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What is top end and bottom end overhauling

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.
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My 2000 Toyota Fourrunner made a super loud knocking sound when I was driving on the highway?

It is hard to say at this range. If a heavy knocking noise that gets louder if you rev up a bit, and it seems to keep time with the engine, you have a failed con-rod (big end) bearing, or less likely, a failed crank main bearing. A lighter knock may be a failed gudgeon pin (small end) bearing. Another possibility is that the engine has eaten a valve or 2.

A blown head gasket can make a noise but it is more like a 'chuff-chuff' sound, like a steam engine.

If the noise has nothing to do with engine revs, look for a loose road wheel or a failed axle bearing, but I doubt it is that.

If you decide it is the engine, the quickest way to investigate is to drain and remove the sump, and look at the big-end bearings. To investigate the valves you could use a borescope, before going to the trouble of removing the cylinder head.

https://cdn0.pissedconsumer.com/review-media/pictures/6d/c4/13869/autozone_denies-valid-warranty-claims-on-newly-installed-water-pump-20130413400428_6dc4-gallery.jpeg
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Do u no wts mains bearings,bigends bearings nd a silender head are

yes
and what is more important I know how to spell them all
main bearings are the bearings situated in the block that supports the crankshaft
big end bearings are the bearings that run on the crank shaft crank pins and are situated in the connecting rod large(big)ends
Cylinder head or head is fitted at the top of the bore or cylinder in which the piston moves to give compression for the engine operation
all this is found in a basic engine construction book from your library
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Engine light comes on when engine is hot. Power is the greatly reduced. When engine is cold it drives perfectly. Toyota 7afe 1.8 litre fuel injection, modded aspirated. I've rebuild the motor due to a big...

Hello,
There is a possibility that the old motor was not burning properly and you have carbon build up on the O2 sensers. A poorly functioning O2 senser will not allow the Fuel/Air mixture to work as you give it gas under load. You could have multiple O2 sensers too.
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Very light knock when idling that goes away when engine revs up

I would first run a check on oil pressure with a gauge known to be good. That will show up a worn or spun big end or main bearing. Pressure will be low.
If that was OK, I'd suspect a failed small end (gudgeon pin) bearing in a piston.
It may also be pre-ignition due to bad timing or low-octane petrol. That sound is more of a rattle like a handful of pins being dropped.
Tappet adjustment may be the cause, but that is more of a clicking sound.
I have seen it reported that the A/C compressor in Jags can make this noise, so check it with A/C on and off.
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Engine knocking,1998 safari awd It's the only way to fix bottom end removing the engine or it can be done just taking the oil pan down- Any suggestions thanks Top end was strip and inspected by machin...

sorry to say knocking usually a rod knock--wrist pin-bearings-which means removing engine-also the engine cradle and front end dont let u drop the oil pan to get to the lower end of the crank shaft
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4.3 vortec engine , engine noise, knocking or tapping on top of engine, not when cold , but starts noise when it heats up, and gets louder as it gets hotter and hotter!!! Sounds like noise is in the center...

The knocking or ticking is going to determine if it is in the top end, lifters, push-rod or rocker arm issue or the bottom end that would include pistons or bearings.
If it is a ticking noise, it will more than likely be a valve train issue.
If a knocking noise, piston or crankshaft related problem.

Attached is a web site that you can listen to a piston slap which is a known issue for your 4.3.
Listen to the noise and see if it sounds similar to your problem. A piston slap will generally sound as though it is coming from the central area of the engine.
Listen to the recording and let me know.
Regards,
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