Puting in new brakes (how)?

Hose is held to suspension strut with c-clip, loosen and retighten union joint while still in clip for ease of undoing. then remove clip holding hose with pliers
Top up reservoir and to avoid fluid loss, Clamp existing rubber hose off above Wheel cylinders callipers. Spread brake pads slightly to clear disc rotor edge then undo callipers from hub - suspend from strut with cord or wire and unscrew old pipe. Immediately replace existing with new hose to callipers. With master cylinder reservoir sealed airtight undo union nut at top of existing rubber hose where clipped to strut. Replace existing lower hose fitting with new hose.Tighten union. replace c clip and bleed brakes at nipple on callipers until all air out of lines.
Job done road test for hard pedal repeat bleeding as necessary.

without undoing the brake lines undo the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the power booster and move it out of the way. then disconnect the vacuum hose to the booster then under the dash disconnect the brake pedal rod that connects the pedal to the booster then unbolt the 4 nuts that fasten the booster to the firewall. remove the booster.

HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

TOOLS REQUIRED
J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Drain the cooling system.
Remove the left wiper arm linkage nuts. Reposition the left wiper arm linkage for access.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster and reposition.
Remove the air cleaner cover and intake tube.
Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables from the TBI mounting bracket.
IMPORTANT: Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables to prevent bending the cable housings.

Remove the transmission fluid filler tube.

Disconnect both of the heater hose clamps at the heater core using the J 38185.
Remove the heater hoses from the heater core.
Cap off the heater core pipes.
IMPORTANT: Cap off the heater core inlet and outlet pipes to prevent coolant spilling inside of the vehicle.

Remove the heater core cover.

Remove the heater core pipe retaining clamp screw.
Remove the heater core from the HVAC module.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Install the heater core to the HVAC module.
Install the heater core pipe retaining clamp screw.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
See: Service Precautions\Vehicle Damage Warnings

Tighten
Tighten the screw to.1.6 N.M (14 lb in).

Install the heater core cover.

Install the heater hoses to the heater core.
Reposition the heater hose clamps to secure the hoses using the J 38185.
Install the transmission fluid filler tube.
Install the air cleaner cover and intake hose.
Connect the throttle and cruise control cables to the TBI mounting bracket.
Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
Install the left wiper arm linkage.
Install the left wiper arm linkage nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to.5 N.M (44 lb in).
Fill the coolant.

Take off the wheels. Make sure that the car is supported safely whith blocks or stands.
Put a wheel nut back on to hold the discs in place.
Undo the two bolts holding the calipers to the axle, lift of the calipers. Do not take off the hoses. Check the discs for wear, they may need resurfacing.Spread the calipers, you can buy a tool for that or you can use a clamp.
remove the pads and fit the new ones. Reverse the proceedures.

apply pressure to the c clamp as you undo the hydraulic hose nut(turn undo/turn undo so as not to allow air in system....)

remove front wheel, undo the retaining bolts from the brake caliper and remove it, do not undo the fluid line that runs to the caliper or you will have to bleed the brakes, just tie the caliper up under the guard somewhere
remove the metal cap from the middle of the rotor, remove the retaining pin from the nut and remove the wheel bearing from the stub axle, the rotor should now be free to remove from the car.
fit the new rotor, grease the bearings if required and tighten to remove any slop in the rotor, once that is done you can put the retaining pin back in place.
You may have to press the caliper piston in to get enough clearance to fit the brake pads over the new rotor, this can be done with a "G" clamp, just remove the outer pad, place a small piece of wood over the face of the inner pad where the "G" clamp is going to sit to protect the pad and wind the clamp to compress the piston, replace the outer pad and fit back into the caliper before you put the caliper over the rotor and bolt it on
hope this helps

If you are talking about the battery clamp bolts turning, then put a screwdriver in the split of the clamp and try to put turning pressure on the screwdriver and at the same time undo the nut of the clamp bolt. Or if you have a pair of mole grips, clamp the bolt head and undo the nut. Worst case , pry the clamp off the terminal and use a hacksaw and cut the bolt in half and remove it , fit a new bolt after. Hope that helps

Raise the car.

Loosen the fuel filler neck rubber hose clamp. Remove hose from tank. Insert tubing into tank and siphon out all fuel.

Undo the brake line bracket blots and move brake lines out of the way.

Undo the exhaust to muffler flange bolts. Exercise extra care if they appear rusted as they will shear off.

Remove rear seat and undo fuel pump cover. Undo fuel pump bolts.
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Disconnect the fuel and return lines.

Support tank with a jack. Undo tank strap bolts. Remove straps.

Lower tank and remove fuel pump.

Drop tank and slide out over exhaust.

Yes there is another way to do it but go slow and do it wright
Bleed by using the screw nut on the pipes you just fitted by.
Pump pedal 3times fast and hold down get someone to clamp all 2 hoses (1F/1brake pipe over rear axle) with small G clamps and then undo pipe nut on the one without clamp when pedal on floor lock up and do again ,when done 2 times put clamp from other side to the 1 you just done and do the same again to that side, when Front done take clamp from rear pipe and put on front and to the same bleeding to the rear BUT
pump up 3 times and open both nuts togeather and tighten both togeather and do the rear 4 times not 2, ANDTop up M/Cylinder every time , you might find jacking up rear of car is a lot better to remove air

No but thier is an important step to take while doing brakes so that back pressure does not upset or contaminate the ABS.Make sure you clamp the flexible brake hose with a hose line clamp that will not damage hose.Loosen the bleed nipple just enough so that the pressure from the piston being pushed back forces the fluid out.You will notice the color of the fluid is different compared to whats in the master cylinder.Heat destroys whats in and around the brake piston and better to be rid of it than letting it stay in the lines.Once piston is all the way back assemble brake system,undo clamp and bleed as normal,If done right there will be very little air and no brake issues in regard to the ABS.Good luck